David Livingstone
Bemba Decr 1872.
1st December 1872
Rt Katanta in Wemba
5 country - It is continuous
with Burungu of
Kasonso = Ruins of
village which soon dis-
appear = Anthills alone
10are enduring structures
here = A nutmeg tree
in full bearing on the
right bank of the Rt
Katanta - Who planted it
2nd Heavy rains all
morning - March at
noon among low long
tree covered hills of
20fine grained schist
igneous rocks of red
white & green colours
0005
over a range of hills
and down to a valley
having village of Nyina
Kapembwa stoc The
5young plasterer or
Sphex is very fat on
coming out of its clay
house and a good
relish for food -
10course W & SW. - 4½
no food to be got
The effect of Motoka's
raid & of Tipotipo's
people
3d Decr A stupid or
perverse guide took
us away today N.W.
& WNW - villagers
20refused to lead us
to Chipwite's where
food is to be had
He is SW & 1½ off
0006
but guide had us at his
mercy for he said if
you go SW you will
be five days without
5food or people = cross
Kaňomba 15 yds & keedeep
Guide disappeared
& so did the path - We
crossed Rt Lampussi
10twice 40 yds & knee deep
course WN.W about 4½
camped & sent men
off to search for a
village with food
3 Decr on Lampussi
Noon {figure} No 3
incurably
injured by
x 3.18 carrier sliding on
20clayey path & falling
4th December 1872
Men sent for food did
not return today - were
5directed by country
people falsely & went
where nought could be
bought - people them
-selves living on wild
10produce - grubs roots
fruits - one sinner
destroyeth much good
A man came to us
demanding his wife
15& child - probably in
hiding - the slaves of
Tipo Tipo have been
capturing - waiting for
the men in a green
20woody valley on the
Lampussi
10 - 30 AM {figure}
clouded over
5th Decr 1872 still
waiting for the men
sent for food - people
collect leaves and
5large mushrooms very
poor food
People returned at 5 PM
with two of Kafimbe's
men & a present of
10food to me = a little
was bought & we go on
tomorrow to sleep two
nights in the way &
reach on the third day
Kafimbe is Nsama's
brother & fights him
Rt Malunda or
Lampussi {figure}
Sintila village & Rr
6th across Malunda or
Lampussi again & up to
5a mountain along
which we went = a long
way then down to ruins
This was 5 hours then
2¼ more to Sintila vil.
10about W. 7¼
We hasten along as
fast as hungry men
& four sick can go
to get food
7th off at 6 - 15 - a
leopard came into our
camp about 1 AM &
bit a woman - she
20screamed & so did the
donkey & it ran off -
came along between
two ranges of low hills
then where they ended
25went along a good sized
stream 30 yds or so
& down into a valley
to Kafimbes W.. 5½
3 - 30 PM 7th Decr 1872
at Kafimba's
{figure}
8th Kafimbe's Decr
[ ]12 - 3 AM ^ S.E. Ɵ Rain 2{3} - .39
7 - 8 AM silent Rain .36
12th 6 - 7 AM Mukubve Rt silent - Nil
13th Mokuwe Rr 4 - 5 AM .25
14th vil 5 hours SW. 4 AM .7
15th vil of Rillchikatule
5 - 6 PM S E Ɵ .54
17th vil - 8 to 12 AM S E Ɵ .68
- Kisinga near head of
20R. Kalungwesi = 4 PM
N.E & round E. & S. Ɵ
not measured
18th Kalungwesi Noon &
251 PM. SE. Ɵ 1.96
- 1 - 2 PM quiet .11
20th Kalungwesi near
4 AM silent NW .14
30Do Noon - 1 PM silent .10
at Chama's
0011
[Do] 2 PM silent NW .45
3 -- -- Ɵ NW 2{1} 12
5 - 6 Ɵ NW 2.13
very cold with it
58 PM & Midnight .32
23d South of Chamas.
about 16' 3 - 4 PM NW .6
7 - 8 PM .12
24th drizzly - then silent
rain from S.W & S. Nil
25th Drizzling cold that
15shews nothing in gauge
Noon .22
1 - 2 SW silent 2.31
3 - 4 PM Do 1 .4
By night silent .14
intelligent pleasant young
man who has been
attacked several times by
5Kitandula successor
of Nsama of Itawa &
compelled to shift from
Motononga to this Rt
Motosi which flows
10into Kisi & thence into
Moero
9th send off men to
a distance for food &
15wait of course = Here
there is none for
either love or money
0013
A man came from the
Arab party on the Lovū
of Kombakomba with
a present of Mchele &
5a goat = They have
killed Cazembe whose
people concealed from
him the approach of
the enemy till they
10were quite near &
having no stockade
[he] fell an easy prey to
them = put his head
and all his ornaments
15on poles - His pretty
wife escaped over
Mofwe & the slaves
of the Arabs ran riot
everywhere = We sent
20a return present of
2 dotis Mer, 1 Jorah
Kanike - one doti of
coloured 3 lbs beads & a
[paper of needles]
10th Decr 1872. Left
Kafimbe = he gave us three
men to take us into
Chama's village - He
5came ^ a mile along with us - an
active clever young
man - our course
very winding as it took
us from one little desert
10-ed village to another =
very many = chiefly
West 5 hours
{figure}
11th Being far from its
water we went 2 hours
across the plain dotted
with villages to a muddy
rivulet & camped in
20a village on a height
Rt Mukubwe for
Moero = chief Morenga
very liberal w food
An Arab Juma bin
Seff sent a goat today
They have been riding
it rough shod over all
5the inhabitants - and
confess it - I return
1 doti Mer. & 1 Jorah
Kanike with a civil
message = the chief a
10young man of no promise
came & I gave him a
second cloth as he has been
liberal = is a nephew of
Nsama of Itawa
12th S. service = Marenga
sent a present of Dura
flour & a fowl & asked
for a little butter as a
20charm - seems to be
unwilling to give us a
guide though told by
Kafimbe to do so instead
of his men who returned
25Many Garaganza about
They trade in leglets &
ivory and slaves
0016
½ an hour Mokoe R
30 yds & much water goes
into Malunda = Moero
13th Decr 1872 Went
about ^ by South & crossed
a river ^ Mokobwe 35 yards &
flowing West - Ill &
after going S W
10camped in a deserted
village S.W. 5
Chipambala
R Mekonda 2W
Meňomba 3 where all cloudy
Always too cloudy
& rainy for obsn
of stars
14th guides turned N.W to
take us to a son of Nsama
and play the usual present
into his hands - I objected
when I saw their direction
25but they said the
0017
path turns round in
front - after going a
mile along the bank of
the Meňomba which
5has much water Susi
broke through - ran South
till he got a S & by W path
which we followed &
came to a village having
10plenty of food - as we
have none camped in
village - and men were
sent off to recall the
fugitive women who
15took us for Kombakomba's
people S & by W 2
crossed Lupere
midway - goes into
Mokobwe - --
15 Decr 1872 country level
& full of pollarded trees for
clothing - ashes for manure -
many deserted villages = few
5birds - cross river Lithabo
30 yds thigh deep - running fast
to South West - joined by a
small one near = reach vil.
of Chipala = at Chikatula Rt
10goes to Moipanza = Lopanza
Lithabo goes to Kalongwesi
about S.W course 4
16th off at 6 AM across the
15rill Chikatula & after ¾ cross
the Lopanza 12 yards & waist
deep at being in flood -
the Lolela after half an hour
8 yds & thigh deep both
20perennial & embowered
in tall umbrageous trees
that love wet - both to the
Kalongwezi
came to quite a group of
25villages having food &
remain to purchase as
we got only driblets in the
last two camps = met 2
Banyamwezi carrying
0019
salt to Loembo for sale
About S. & by W. 2
Liobemba of Moamba
went to Kabuire for it -
5and now retail it in
the way back.
Noon Kasianes villages
{figure} near Rivulets
Lopanza &
10 Lolela
The headman a relative of
Nsama brought a large
present of flour of dura
and I gave him 2 fms
15calico
17th looked rainy but we
waited ½ an hour & then
went on 1½ when it
20set in & forced us to
seek shelter in a village
Head of it very civil = gave
us two baskets cassava
& one of dura = I gave a
25small present first -
District called Kisinga
and flanks the Kalung
-wezi 1½
18th Decr 1872 over same
flat pollarded forest until
we reached R Kalungwesi
course South 4¾
We are on Kalungwesis
right bank and about
2{¼} North{East} of the confluence
of the Luenga{na} or Kisaka = this
side is Itawa Kisinga
10other is Chama's & Kisinga too
Luena comes from
Jange in Cazembe's land
or WSW. from this
Kalungwesi comes from
15SE of this and goes
away NW.
Kisinga on this & on
other side to Kabanda
{figure} clouded over after
20 heavy rain
{figure}
Donkey sends a foot
every now & then through
the roof of cavities made
apparently by ants &
5sinks down 18 inches
or more = nearly falls
these covered hollows
are right in the paths
19th so cloudy & wet that
no observation for the
Latitude & Longitude of this
real geographical
point can be taken
Kalongwesi ^ sixty or eighty yards
broad and four yds
deep about a mile above
confluence of Luena
crossed it in very small
20canoes - swamped one
twice but no one lost
Marched South about
1¼
20th Decr 1872 shut
in by dense clouds
wait to see if it clears
up - Went on at 7 -15
5drizzling as we came
near the Mosumba or
chief's stockade = son of
Chama tried to mislead
us by setting out West
10but the path being grass
covered I objected and
soon came on to the
large clear path = guide
ran off to report to the
15son but we kept on
our course & he & the son
followed us - met by a
party one of which tried
to regale us by vociferous
20singing & trumpetting with
an antelope's horn but
I declined the deafening
honour = flat tree covered
country = once cultivated =
25valley of Mosumba has a
raised side on the East
0023
course nearly South 3¼
Had we suffered
the misleading we
should have come
5here tomorrow after
noon - {figure}
{figure}
* The carrier fell at 6 PM on a slippery
path on 3d Decr and No 3
10jerked round to 29 = when
the others shewed 25. - on
the 19th I turned the screw
behind up till it shewed
25.65º and today it shews
15as above
A wet bed last night
through my bed being
in the canoe that was
upset - It is so rainy
20there was no drying
of it - 7 AM
21st {figure}
21st December 1872
at Chama's = heavy
clouds drifting fast
from Nor East & North
5and falling drizzling
and from SE at Noon
{figure}
Chama's brother tried to
mislead us yesterday in
10hopes of making us wander
hopelessly & helplessly -
Failing in this from my
refusal to follow a grass
covered path - He ran
15before us to the chiefs boma
or stockade and made
all the women flee which
they did leaving their chickens
damless - We gave him
20two handsome cloths = one
for himself & one for
Chama & said we
wanted food only and
would buy it = they
0025
[ ]{are} accustomed to the
bullying of half castes
who take what they
please for nothing - they
5were alarmed at our
behaviour & fled today
so we took quiet possess-
-ion of the stockade as
where he put us was on
10the open defenceless
plain - seventeen human
skulls ornament - they
left their fowls and
pigeons - there was no
15bullying = our woment
went in to grind food
and came out without
any noise = this flight
seems to be the act of a
20foolish brother of the chief
and it is difficult for
me to prevent stealing
by my horde = the
brother came drunk &
25was taking off a large sheaf
of arrows = we scolded &
prevented him
22 Decr 1872
{figure} {figure}
crossed Rivulet of Chamas
vil. ten yards or so & thigh
5deep - and went on South
1¼ then came to a sedgy
deep stream which we could
barely cross = hauled a cow
over bodily = Went on
101½ mainly South and
through much Brakens
South 2¾
23d off at 6 AM in a
15mist and in an hour
& a quarter came to three
large villages by three
rills called Misangwa & much sponge -
Went on to other villages
20about South & a stockade 3
arrows {figure} one bundle
Chama's arrows
24th Closed in sky with
drifting clouds from
S & SW - went on &
5stopped at a village
1½ hour but it was
drizzly only = Went
on another hour &
at a village it came
10only wetting = sent back
Chama's arrows as
his foolish brother will
not now use them
against us SW 2½
15The midway village
was at the R. Mopoposi
running W to Lofubu
about 7 yds running
fast over rocks having
20aquatic plants = people
not afraid of us here
as they were so dis-
-tressingly elsewhere
We hope to buy food here
24th Decr 1872 2. PM
beyond Mopoposi Rr
{figure} {figure}
[F 27] 25th Christmas day - I
thank the good Lord for
the good gift of his son
Christ Jesus our Lord.
Slaughtered a cow
10and gave a fundo and
a half to each of the party
This is our great day
so we rest - It is cold
and wet day & night -
15headman gracious &
generous which is very
pleasant compared with
Awe Awe refusing to
sell or stop to speak
20or shew the way
[S. 28] 26th along among the
usual low tree covered
hills of red & yellow &
0029
green schists = paths
wet & slippery = came
to the Lofubu 15 yards
broad and very deep
5water clear flowing
N.W. to join Luena
or Kisaka = as the
Mopoposi goes West
too into Lofubu it
10becomes large as we
saw - We crossed by a
bridge & donkey swam
with men on each side
of him = 3 villages on
15other side & many iron
furnaces - wet drizzly
weather made us stop
soon SW 2
a herd of buffaloes
scared by us rushed off &
broke the trees in hurry
otherwise no game or
marks of game visible
[S. 29] - 27th December 1872
Leave the villages on the
Lofubu & see a cascade
coming down on our
5left - country undulating
deeply = hills sometimes
rise up from 300 to 400
feet - all covered with
stunted wood and much
10Fern of the common
Braken sort ^ and Hart's tongue - cross one
rill running to Lofubu
course S.S.W 4
camp by a blacksmiths -
15rill in Jungle
No rain fell today for a
wonder but lower tier
of clouds still drifts
fast from N.W.
Sleep tomorrow in
the Forest ^ Nyika without people
then on third day reach
vil. of a man of Chungo
a Babisa headman
25no game = killed a Naia
haje 7 long its hind
0031
part reared up & turned to fight
The under NorWest
stratum is composed
of fluffy cottony masses
5the edges spread out as
if on an electrical
machine = the upper
or South East is of broad
fields of striated cats
10hair = the N.W. flies
quickly the S.E. slowly
away where the others
come from
No observations have
15been possible during
most of this month -
People assert that
the new moon will
bring drier weather
20and the clouds are
preparing to change the
N.W. lower stratum
into S.E. Do Do - and
the N.W be the upper tier
[M 30] 28th December 1872
A man ill & unable to
come on was left all
night in the rain
5without fire = we send
back men to carry him
Wet & cold N.W. but
little rain in gauge
6 AM = No 3 not so
10{figure} sensitive now
as formerly
We are evidently
{figure} ascending as
15 we come near
the Chambeze
The N.E clouds came up
to meet the NW. this morning
and then the SE came across
20as if combatting the NW
so as the new moon comes
soon it may be a real
change to drier weather
0033
{figure}
4.PM - man carried
in here very ill we must
5carry him tomorrow
29th our man died
during the night - New
☾ last night a quiet
10good man = Barometer
same as at 3 PM
now 6AM
{figure}
Chipangawaze
15died & was buried
this morning - the
disease began at
Kampamba's
29th or 1st Jany 1873
I am wrong two days
[T 31] 29th Decr contd 1872
After the burial & planting
four branches of Mariñga
at the corners of the grave
5we went on Southwards
3¼ to a river ^ the Luongo running
strongly ^ W and South to Luapula = then after
one hour crossed it 12
yards & waist deep
10S S W = 4
Meet a man with four of his
kindred stripping off bark
to make bark cloth = says
that this is the Luongo that
15goes into Luapula above{below}
where I crossed =
[1 W] 30th came on at 6 AM W.
very cold saying that the rains
5have ceased for a time =
along side of denudation
of the river long ago which
is some 500 or 600 feet
up - then through forest
10to the village of the man
who met us yesterday
As we have been unable
to buy food through the
illness & death of Changawaze
15I camp here South 2
{figure} {figure}
- 2 January 1873 Thurs.
Wednesday was 1st
20I was two days wrong
hours
F. 3d January 1873
Sat. 4th South S.E. one hour
to the Lopopozi or
Lopopo[ ]{zi}ha stream
of 25 or 30 feet & now
5breast deep flowing
fast N.{S.} to join the Chambeze
course S & by E. 2½
at Ketebe's ^ on Rt Kirima 2 PM after
very heavy rain
{figure} {figure}
S. 5th A woman of our
15party is very ill = she
will require to be carried
tomorrow
6th January 1873
Ketebe or Kapesha very civil and
generous - sent three
men to guide us to his
5elder Chungo - His men
drum & sing harshly
for him constantly -
I gave him half a lb of
powder & he lay on his
10back rolling & clapping
his hands & all his
men lullilooed - then
turned on his front &
did the same = men
15very timid == no wonder
the Arab slaves do as
they choose with them -
women burst through
the stockade in terror
20when my men broke
out into a chorus in
pitching the tent -
cold, cloudy & drizzling
much land cultivated
25far from the stockades
0041
came to a young relation
of Ketebe in a stockade
about South 2¾
Moenje vil
53 PM wet & cloudy
{figure} 6 AM Rainy {figure}
Sponges here are now
full & overflowing by
the continuous & heavy
10rains = crops of mileza
maize - Cassava = Dura
tobacco = beans = ground
nuts growing finely
A border is made
15round each patch manured
by burning the hedge
and castor oil plants
pumpkins = calabashes
planted in it to spread
20out over the grass
7th January 1873 a
cold rainy day keeps
us in a poor village
very unwillingly
5same vil. 3 PM fair
{figure} after rain all morning
Moenje vil
Rt Kamolopa
Wet till Noon & afterwards
10 [Rt] Kamolopa into Kamolozze
& it into Kapopopozi
8th Detained by heavy
continuous rains in
15this vil Moenje = We are
near Bangweolo and
in a damp region
got off in afternoon
in a drizzle = crossed a
20rill 6 feet but now very
deep & large running
sponges on each side -
Kamolopa -
then one hour beyond
25a sponge sluggish
0043
rivulet 100 yards broad
with broad bank sponges
[=] waist deep - & many
leeches in it - came on
5through flat forest as
usual SW & S 3
Kalulwe = Kamonunse
all into Lopoposhi
Kimpuko R tomorrow
10Nkulumola Do
Chiremba = Liemba
{figure} Kamonunse Rt
9th Mosumba {figure}
of Chungo = after
one hour we {figure}
crossed the Rt &
sponge Nkulumuna
20100 feet of rivulet and
200 yds of flood besides
some 200 yards of sponge
full & running off
0044
We then after another
hour crossed the large
Rivulet Loposliosi{popozi} by
a bridge which was 45 feet
5long & shewed the deep
water = then 100 yards of
flood thigh deep = and
200 or 300 yards of sponge
called Liñkanda
10Then we crossed two ^ rills
& their sponges - the rills
in flood 10 or 12 feet broad
thigh deep = after crossing
the last we came near
15the Mosumba and recived
a message to build our
shed in the forest which
we did = Chungo knows
what a nuisance a
20safari makes itself =
cloudy day & at Noon
heavy rain from NW
South & SE. 3½
Headman on recieving
25two cloths said he would
converse about our
0045
ford & shew it tomorrow
no observations can be
made from clouds &
rain -
10th January 1873
Mosumba a Chungu
rest today & get an
insight into the ford
10cold rainy weather
at 6 AM
{figure} {figure}
{figure} {figure}
10th continued When we
prepared to visit Chungo
we recieved a message
that he had gone to the
5plantations to get millet
then sent for us at 1 PM
to come but on reaching
the stockade we heard a
great Kelele or uproar
10and found it being shut
from terror - spoke to
the inmates but in vain
so we returned - Chungo
says that we would put
15his head on a pole like
Cazembe's = We shall go on
without him tomorrow
the terror guns have inspired
is extreme
11th Chungo sent a goat
& big basket of flour &
excused his fears because
guns had routed Cazembe
25and his head was
put on a pole = and
his young men raised
0047
a noise = We remain
today to buy food
as there is scarcity
in Mombo in front
5cold & rainy weather
never saw the like
but this is among the
sponges of the Nile &
near the Northern shore of
10Bañgweolo
Noon after drizzly morning
{figure}
12th a dry day enabled us
15to move forwards one
hour to a rivulet & sponge
but by ascending it we
came to its head &
walked over dry shod
20Then one hour more to
another broad rivulet
Pinda sluggish & having 100
yards of sponge on each side
12th January 1873 continued
This had a stockaded vil.
& men in terror shut the
gates - our men climbed
5over and opened them but
I gave the order to move
forward through flat
forest as usual till we
came to a running rivulet
10of about 20 feet have over
100 yards of sponge on
each side = the white sand
had come out & formed
as usual the bottom
15here we entered a village
to pass the night = some
had bought or stolen
little children - I ordered
them to be returned - one
20swore that he did not
know from whom he
got the child, I gave him
one blow as a thief &
ordered him out of the
25camp S - 3½
Kalombosi Rt
0049
Pass mines of fine black
iron ore "motapo" - it is
magnetic
13th storm stayed by
rain & cold at the vil
on Rt. Kalombosi near
Chambeze - never was
in such a spell of cold
10rainy weather except in
going to Loanda in
1853 - Send for food back
Noon {figure} {figure}
Rainy
15all over
14th Went on dry SE &
then South 2 hours to River
Mosiñga & went along
20parallel to it till we came to
confluence of the Kasie
Mosinga 25 feet = waist deep
with 150 yards sponge
on right bank & about 50 yds
25on left = pass one village
then another S.S.E. == 4½
14th January continued 1873
very many plots of ^ cassava maize
millet - dura - ground nuts
voandzeia in the forest all
5surrounded with strong high
hedges skillfully built - &
manured with wood ashes
villagers much afraid of us
after 4½ hours we were
10brought up by the deep Rt
M^panda to be crossed tomorrow
in canoes - many flowers
in the forest - mary-golds
a white jonquil looking plant
15without smell = many
orchids white yellow &
pink = asclepias with
bunches of French white
Methonica gloriosi gladiolas
20flowers = clematis ^ and
blue & deep purple Polygalas
Grasses with white starry
seed vessels = & spikelets of
brownish red & yellow
25Beautiful blue flowering
bulbs, and new flowers
of pretty delicate forms
& but little scent - very
few birds or any kind of
30game = but the hedges say
0051
that at times large game
come around = people
catching fish in baskets
They are Babisa and all
5have fled from the West
We may add Balsams
compositae of blood red
colour and of purple
other flowers of liver colour
10bright canary yellow
Pink orchids on spikes
thickly covered all round
& of three inches in length -
spiderworts of fine
15blue or yellow or even pink.
Different coloured As-
clepediae - as French white
crimson & blood red
sages = + blue six petals bulbs
20Beautiful yellow & red
umbelliferous flowering
plants - and Dill and
wild Parsnips = pretty
flowering Aloes yellow
25& red in one whorl of
blossoms = Peas and
many other flowering
plants which I do not know
15th January 1873 found
out that Chungu had let us
go astray towards the
Lake and into an angle
5formed by the M^panda
Lipoposhi & Lake full
of rivulets crossed with
canoes = Chisupa a
headman on other side of
10R M^panda sent a present
and denounced Chungu
for heartlessness -- we
explained to the men of
the Safari our change
15of route & went first to
N.E. then East to the
Monsinga which we
forded again at a deep
place full of holes &
20rust of iron water in
which we floundered over
300 yards = We crossed
a sponge thigh deep
before we came to the
0053
Mosinga = then on in
flat forest to village in
a stockade = the whole
march about E. 6
16th away North East &
North to get out of the
many rivulets near the
Lake = back to the River
10Loposhosi which now
looms large & must be
crossed in canoes = we
have to wait till these are
brought & are in a vil.
15on the banks of a
sponge = we came only
Nearly North 1¾
We were treated
scurvily by Chungu = He
20knew that we were near
Chambeze but hid the
knowledge & himself
It is terror of guns.
17th January 1873 - We are
troubled for want of canoes
but have to deal gently with
the owners otherwise they
5would all run away as
they have done around
Chungu's in the belief that
we were coming back to
punish their silly headman
10By waiting patiently yester-
day we drew about twenty
canoes towards us this
morning = all too small
for the donkey so we
15had to turn away back
NorWest to the bridge
above Chungu's = If we
had tried to swim the
donkey alongside a canoe
20it would have been
terribly strained as the
Lipoposhi is here quite
two miles wide & full
of rushes except in
25the main stream - It is
all deep and the country
0055
being very level as the
rivulets come near to
the Lake they become very
broad = crossed two sponges
5and rivulets in their
centres = much cultivation
in the forest = wood ashes
the only manure the
people know & when a
10hedge is burned down
castor oil plants = calabashes
and pumpkins are
planted along its burned
site = In the second
15year the mileza and
maize are sickly and
yellow while in the
first year with fresh
wood ashes they are dark
20green and strong - very
much of the forest
falls for manure - the
people seem very eager
cultivators = course
25about N.W 3
Possibly mounds have
the potash brought up in forming
18th January 1873 We lost a
week by going to Chungo
a worthless terrified head-
man - and came back to
5the ford of Liposhosi
which we crossed only
from believing him to
be an influential man
who would explain the
10country to us = We
came up the Liposhosi
3 hours yesterday after
spending 2 hours in
going down to examine
15the canoes - then two &
a half hours this morning -
and on its Eastern side
one and a half more -- crossing
two sponges of between
20200 & 300 yards with rills
in their centres =
Course NE & S. 4
We heard that Syde bin Ali
is returning from Katañga
25with much ivory
19th after prayers we
went on to a fine village
and on from it to the
Mononse = which though
5only ten feet of deep
stream flow S. had some
400 yards of most fatiguing
plunging deep sponge
often waist deep = this
10deep sponge was in a
mass of dark coloured
rushes that looked as if
grass burned off - many
leeches plagued us = We
15were now 2½ hours out
went on 2 miles to another
sponge & village but went
round its head dryshod
then two hours more to
20sponge Lovu & Rt
flat forest as usual
Course about S.E. 4½
but deduct ½ for crossings
== 4
19th January 1873 3 PM
{figure} {figure}
20th 6 AM {figure}
Tried to observe
Lunars in vain = clouded
10over all = thick & muggy -
came on disappointed
and along Lovu a mile & half
crossed it by a tree felled
and lying over it = about
156 feet broad & deep with
about 150 yards of sponge
then on East whole
0059
march about 2
very unsatisfactory as
progress
21st Fundi lost himself
yesterday & we are looking
out for him = He came
at Noon = wandered in
the eager pursuit of two
10herds of eilands = Having
seen no game for a long
time he lost himself
in anxiety to kill one
We went on 2½ hours
15and were brought up at the
Malalanzi Rt which is
about 15 feet broad -
waist deep and has 300
or more yards of sponge -
20Guides refused to come
as Chituñkūe their
headman did not own
them = we started alone
a man came after us
25tried to mislead us in
vain
22nd January 1873
We pushed on through
many deserted gardens
& villages = the man evidently
5sent to lead us astray
from our S.E course turned
back when he saw that
we refused his artifice =
crossed another Rt now
10broad & deep possibly
Lofubu and then came
to another of several deep
streams in rushes but
sponge not more than 50 ft
15in all - Here we remained
having travelled in fine
drizzling rain all morning
time & course S.E. 2½
population all gone
20from the war of Chitoka
with this Chituñkūe
No Astro. observations
25worth naming during
Decr & January -
= impossible = clouds & Rains
Note = It is trying beyond
measure to be baffled by
the natives lying and mis-
-leading us whenever they
5can = they fear us very
greatly - and with a terror
that would gratify an
anthropologists heart -
their unfriendliness is
10made more trying by
our being totally unable
to observe for our
position = It is either
densely cloudy or continu-
15-ally raining day & night -
country covered with
brakens - and rivulets
occur at least once
every hour = these are
20now deep & have a
broad selvage of sponge -
Lower stratum of clouds
moves quickly from the
N.W = upper more slowly
25from S.E. & tell of rain near
23d January 1873 We
have to send back to villages
of Chituñkūe to by food
It was not reported to me
5that the country in front
was depopulated for three
days - so I send a day back
I dont know where we
are and the people are
10decietful in their state-
-ments = unaccountably
so though we deal fairly
and kindly = rain rain
rain as if it never
15tired on this watershed
The NE showers shew
very little in the gauge but
keep every thing & place
wet and sloppy
People returned with
a wretched present from
Chituñkūe = bad flour
& a fowl = meant to be
rejected = an exorbitant
25demand for guides
0063
and for gunpowder -
refused his present =
& must plod on without
guides = this from the
5numerous streams
is very difficult -
24th Went on E & N.E.
to avoid the deep part of a
10large river which requires
2 canoes but the men
sent by the chief would
certainly hide them ^ - drizzling -
1¾ to large stream = at least
15300 yards of deep water among
sedges & rushes - ^ & 100 of sponge one part
50 feet was neck deep &
water cold = plunged in
elephants footprints
20for ½ hour = then came
on 1 hour to a small
rivulet 10 feet broad but
waist deep = bridge covered
and broken down -
25course about E & by N. 2¾
sore on the women
24th January 1873 contd
carrying me across one of
the broad deep sedgy rivers
of these parts is really a
5very difficult task - one
we crossed today was at
least 1000 feet broad or
more than 300 yards -
The first part - the main
10stream came up to Susi's
mouth and wetted my seat
and legs = one held up my
pistol behind = then one
after another took a turn
15and when he sank into a
deep elephants foot
print he required two
men to lift him so as to
gain a footing on the level
20which was over waist deep
others went on & bent
down the grass to insure
0065
sure footing on the side of
the elephants path = Every
ten or 12 paces brought
us to a clear stream
5flowing fast in its own
channel while overall
a strong current came
bodily through all the
rushes & aquatic plants
10Susi had the first spell
then Farjella = then a
tall stout Arab looking
man then Amoda -
then Chanda - then Wadi
15Sale and each time I
was lifted off bodily &
put on another pair
of stout willing shoulders
and 50 yards put them
20out of breath = no wonder
It was sore sore sore on the
women folk of our party
24th January 1873 contd
It took us a full hour
and a half to cross all
over and several came
5over twice to help me
& their friends - the
water was cold and
so was the wind but
no leeches plagued us
10When we crossed the
second Rivulet rain
threatened from the
NW and we hastened
on the building of
15sheds = after 4 PM
it came on a pouring
cold rain when we
were all under cover
We are anxious about
20food - the Lake is near
but we are not sure of
provisions as there
have been changes of
0067
population - our progress
is distressingly slow
wet wet wet sloppy
weather truly and no
5observations except
that the land near
the Lake being all very
level the streams
spread out into broad
10firths & broad
sponges = the streams
are so numerous that
there has been a scarcity
of names = Here we have
15Lovu and Luena =
We had two Lovus
before and another
Luena = and several
large rivulets that
20seem to deserve names
but they are not mentioned
by the people = never mind
25th January 1873 Raining
during the night & early
morning kept us a
little at camp where we
5were joined by a man
of Unyanyembe said
to have been left sick by
an Arab = came on 1¼ to
a rill 18 inches broad &
10calf deep - sponge some
30 yards = then on over
flat forest in which as
usual we can see slope
only by the leaves being
15washed into heaps in the
direction the water in the
paths wished to take -
1½ more to another rill
and then to the Lovu a
20large stream with bridge
destroyed = sent to make
repairs before we go over
cloudy & spitting of rain
course E or E & by N. 3
Repaired bridge and then
all crossed over a
deep river of 50 feet flowing
fast to the South ^ & SW and
5having about 50 yards of
sponge & 200 yards of
deep flood flowing in
long grass = knee and
waist deep = clear water
10The men built their huts
and had the camp ready
by 3 PM = a good
days work not hindered
by rain - country all
15depopulated so we can
buy nothing = and
we see no cultivation
though soil is very
rich and water in
20abundance = Elephants
and antelopes have
been here lately
26th I arranged to go to
our next river Luena &
ascend it till we found it
small before crossing = as
5it has much TiñgaTinga
or yielding sponge But
another plan was found
by night and we were
requested to go down the
10Lovu - not wishing to
appear overbearing I
consented until after two
hours Southing we came
to several miles of TingaTinga
15= people of a fishing station
ran away from us &
we had to wait for some
sick ones = women
collecting mushrooms
A native came near but
positively refused to guide
us to Matipa or anywhere
The sick compelled us to
an early halt
25S. & S.E. 3¼
27th Went on up stream
one hour & crossed its head
though large at our camp
5then through forest to
another rivulet running
South 10 feet & thigh deep
with over 50 yards of flow
sponge on each side - saw
10marks of buffalo &
gnu in forest = no
people seen = Went on
in usual flat forest
with very few large trees
15but much fern for
1¾ & came to a rill of
3 feet & deep - sponge 20 yds
on each side = to pass the
night = SE. 2¾
but it is a safety
valve for me and I
have no fevers
or other ailments
28th January 1873
a dreary wet morning
and no food that we
know of near - It
5drop drop drops and
drizzles & is cold
from the Norwest -
= killed our last calf
but one last night to
10give each a mouthful
9-30 were allowed
by the rain to leave (Tsetse) our
camp - and march SE.
2 hours to a strong deep
15rivulet - 10 feet broad only
but waist deep and 150
yards of flood all deep too
sponge about 40 yards in
all & running fast out
20Then went on 1¼ through the
usual forest - no people
last 1¼ S. general course
about S & by E. 3¼
camp by a broad
25prairie or Buga
29th no rain in night
for a wonder = we
tramped 1¼ to a broad
5sponge having at least
300 yards of flood = clear
water flowing S.W. but
no ^ stream in centre as
usual = all was stream
10flowing through the rushes
and knee & thigh deep -
with about 30 yards of
weeping sponge on one
side and 130 yds on the other
15Then went on 1 hour
through the usual forest
to another sponge with
only 30 yards of flood in
it - & 150 of sponge. = on
20again to broad branching
sponges 40 minutes at
which resolved to send out
scouts S - SE. & SW. the
music of the singing birds
25the pleasant voices of the
Turtle doves - the screaming
Francolin proclaim man to
be near = South = 3
29th January continued
3 PM {figure} {figure}
clear
30th Remain waiting
for the scouts = Manua
Sera returned at dark
having gone about
8 hours South & seen
10the Lake and two islets
smoke now appeared
in the distance and
a very broad wet
Bŏga so he turned &
15the rest went on to
the smokes to buy food
= wet evening.
1st February 1873
20waiting for the scouts - they
Returned unsuccessful
Saw a very large River
flowing into the Lake
but not a single soul
25forced by hunger to
return 2½ hours
0075
Killed our last calf
{figure} = ^ 4 days hard
travel = for us
all = send 4
5 men forward
or rather back
ward to Chituñkūe's
to buy food in
advance & bring it back
2nd march smartly back
six hours to our camp
of 28th ult = people
bear their hunger well
15collect mushrooms
& plants and wander
often in this flat
featureless country
3d Return march
to our bridge on the
Lofu 5 hours = In
going we went astray
& took six hours to
25do the work of 5 = Tried
Lunars in vain =
Either sun or moon
in cloud = on Luena 5
February 4th Return 2¾ to camp
on rivulet with much
Methonica gloriosa on its
banks Our camp being
5on its left bank of 26th
½ to Tingatiñga river
probably Lofu{Kwala} = a long
time to cross all over
though now the elephants
10footprints were filled up
which made passage easier
Then on 1½ to camp of
25th + 2¾ + ½ = 3¼ + 1½ ==
4¾ === camp 4¾
15among deserted
gardens affording a
welcome supply of
cassava & sweet potatoes
Men sent on before us
20slept here last night &
have decieved us by
going more slowly
without loads than we
who are loaded.
5th arrived at
Chutinkue's crossing
a broad deep brook at
5starting, then on 2 hours
to another sluggish one
at a village then about
¾ more to Malalanzi
now swolen and having
10at least 200 yards of flood
and of sponge ^ 300 a good
deal more = saluted by
a drizzling shower
We are now at Chituñkues
15mercy = Return 2¾
February
Chitunkūe more civil
than we expected = saw
each chief had his
20own land & peculiarities
he was not responsible
for others - we had been
near to Matipa & other
chiefs & he would give
25us guides if we gave
a cloth & some powder
Returned our 41 miles
in 15 hours through much
deep water = our scouts
played us falsely both in
5time and beads = the
headmen punished them
[Febry] 5th continued = got lunars
for a wonder = visited
10Chituñkubwe as his
name properly is = a fine
jolly looking man of
a European cast of coun-
-tenance = very sensible &
15friendly = gave him 2
cloths for which he seemed
thankful & promised good
guides to Matipa = shewed
me two of Matipa's men
20who had heard our guns
fired for a stray one &
followed us = we were
close to human habitations
but knew it not - we
25have lost half a month
by wandering but it was
all owing to the unfriendliness
of some & fears of all
0079
I begged for a more
Northern path where the
water is less - It is impossi
-ble to describe the amount
5of water near the Lake -
Rivulets without number
they are so deep as to damp all ardour
Passed a very large
striped spider in going
10to visit Chituñkubwe
The stripes were of
yellowish green &
it had two most formidable
reddish mandibles the
15same shape as those
of the red headed white
ant = It seemed to be
eating a kind of ant
with a light coloured
20head not seen elsewhere
a man killed it and all
the natives said that
it was most dangerous
Passed gardens of
25Mthama or dura leaves
all split up with hail &
forest leaves all punctured
6th Chituñkubwe gave
a small goat & large
basket of flour as a
return present - I
5added ¾ lb of powder
February 5
{figure}
7th this chief shewed
10his leanings by demanding
prepayment for the
guides - this being a
preparatory step to
their desertion I resisted
15{figure} {figure}
0081
Sent men to demand
what he meant by
his words and he
denied all and said
5that his people lied
not he = we take this
for what it is worth
He gives 2 guides tomorrow
morning & visits us
10this afternoon
3 PM Raining
{figure} and θ from
N.W.
8th chief dawdles in
giving guides though he
promised great things
yesterday - the blame is
20put on his people who did
not prepare food yesterday
on account of the rain
time is of no value to
them - We have to
25remain over today
8th February 1873 continued
It is most trying to have
to wait on most frivolous
pretences = I have endured
5such vexatious delays I
ought to have learned to
be patient = guides came
at last with quantities
of food to make bargains
10with my people in the
way = went East to
a deserted vil - 2
A Nassicker who carried
my saddle was found
15asleep near our camp
9th slept in a most
unwholesome ruined
village = rank vegetation
20had run over all &
the soil smelled offensively
crossed a sponge - then
a rivulet & sponge
running into Mtwale
0083
then by a rocky
passage the Mofiri
or great TingaTinga
water running stronly
5waist & breast deep
about 30 feet broad
here but very much
broader below - then
a sponge & rill - then
10a deep rivulet the Methonica
one but we build a
camp above our
former one = the human
ticks called Papasi
15by Swaheli and
Karapatos by the
Portuguese made
even the natives
call out against their
20numbers & ferocity
10th February 1873
Back again to our
old camp on the Lovu
or Lofu by the bridge
5We left in a drizzle
which continued from
4 AM to 1 PM - we
were three hours in it
and all wetted just
10on reaching camp
by 200 yards of flood
mid deep but we have
food = At 4 PM drizzle
began again, and
15continued E. 3
till dark
11th Our guides took us
across country where
20we saw many marks
of buffaloes and in
a meadow the head
of a sponge we saw
a herd of Hartebeests
0085
a drizzly night was
followed by a morning
in a damp cold fog
but in three hours
5we came to our old
camp though as we
went it took us six -
and in coming back
five = camp on a
10deep bridged Rivulet
a bridge shews the
rivulet of five feet
broad to be perennial
name Kiachibwe
15{figure}
camp of 28th & 2nd
now of 11th
SE == 3¼
12th February 1873
1½ to cross Kasoso a
small rivulet & sponge
going into the Mokisya
5which flows NW - then
on & in ½ an hour
cross Mokisya = deep &
broad stream - sluggish
mid deep = then on an
10hour to cross Mfungwe
then over a small
rivulet & sponge near
its head - and away
through the usual
15flat forest for three
more hours = few
trees thicker than
a man - cross a
small Rt & sponge to
20camp = S. 6
Lofubatse goes to Luena SE
Kamatesi tomorrow
0087
{figure} 3PM clouded over
13th 4 hours to in
sight of Luena & Lake
5Forest trees larger
many elephants
and other game but
shy - Guides as
much or more at a
10loss than we as they
always go in canoes
in the flat rivers &
rivulets = Went East
then round to South
15East then South
4
3 PM Rainy
{figure} {figure}
14th Feby 1873 public
punishment for
Chirango for stealing
blue beads 15 cuts --
5diminished his load to
40 lbs - giving blue &
white beads to be strung
The water stands so high
in the paths that I could
10not walk dry shod &
I found in the large buga
or prairies in our front
that the water was knee
and thigh deep on to
15Luena the palm or
Muale palms of which
we see = I sent on two
men to cross Luena
& go to first villages of
20Matipa and ask for a
canoe to carry me
across the prairie and
ask Matipa for large
0089
canoes to navigate the
Lake - or give a guide
to take us East to the
Chambeze to go round on
5foot =
Halima informed on
Chirango as he offered
her the stolen beads for
a cloth = this was so
10far faithful in her
but she has an outrageous
tongue
(I remain also because
of an excessive discharge
15Haemorrhagic)
If the good Lord gives
me favour & permits
me to finish my
20great work I shall
thank & bless him -
though it has cost me
untold toil - pain =
and travel = this trip has
25made my hair all grey -
6 AM near Luena R
{figure} {figure}
15th February 1873
service and killed
5our last goat while
waiting for messenger
to return from Matipa
Evening messenger
came back foiled by
10TingaTinga & deep Buga
fired his gun three times
but no answer came
Then as he had slept
one night away he
15turned but found
some men hunting &
came here with them
They say that Matipa
is on Chirube islet
20a good man too -
but the isle is far
16th sent men by
the hunter's canoe
to Chirube with a
5request to Matipa if
he has canoes to
transport us West
If not tell us truly
and we will go East
10& cross Chambeze
where it is small
Chituñkubwe's
men ran away
refusing to wait
15till we had communi-
cated with Matipa
Here the water stands
underground 18 inches
from the surface
20They played us false & this
is why they escaped
17th Men away negotiating
with Matipa for canoes
They have to go all the way
out to the island Chirubwe
5in canoes and will
return tonight or tomorrow -
Suffered a furious
attack at midnight by the
red Sirafu or Driver
10ants - our cook fled first
their onset - lighted a candle
and remembering Dr
van der Kemp's idea that
no animal will attack
15man unprovoked - I lay
still - the first came on
the foot quietly then some
began to bite between the
toes - then the larger ones
20swarmed over the foot
bit furiously & made
the blood start out - I then
went out of the tent and
my whole person was
25in a moment covered
as closely as small
0093
pox, not confluent, on
a patient - fires were
lighted of grass & my men
picked some off my
5limbs & tried to save me =
not so one of the Nassick
pupils he growled out
to Majwara "Dont take
grass off my hut" - far
10from offering assistance
he grudged the assistance
rendered by others and
a little dry straw; after
they had finished their own.
15It is a fair specimen
of the disobliging nature
they imbibe with their
reading = My men say
they have been taught
20"reading only" It seems true -
After battling & burning for
an hour or two they took
me into a hut not yet
invaded, and I rested
25till they came (the pest)
and routed me out there too.
17th February 1873 continued
Then came on a steady pour
of rain that held on till
noon as if trying to make
5us miserable - at 9 AM
I got back into the tent -
I neglected to add above
that Majwara said to
the growling Nassicker
10"Who will take you to
"Matipa if he does not"
a neat reproof - the
large sirafu have
mandibles curved like
15reaping sickles, and
very sharp = as fine of
point as the finest
needle or a bees sting.
Their office is to remove
20all animal refuse
cockroaches &c and they
took all my fat
0095
Their appearance sets
all the cockroaches into
a flurry and all ants
white & black get into a
5panic - On man they
insert the sharp curved
mandibles, and then with
six legs push their bodies
round so as to force the
10points in by lever power.
They collect in masses in
their runs & stand, mandibles
extended as if defying
attack = the large ones stand
15thus at Bay while the
youngsters hollow
out a run half an
inch wide & about an
inch deep = they remained
20with us till late in
the afternoon, and
we put ^ hot ashes on the
defiant hordes - they
retire to enjoy the fruits
25of their raid & come
out fresh another day -
18th February 1873 -
The men gone to Matipa
will probably come today
We wait hungry & cold &
5hope the good Lord will
grant us influence with
this man
Our men returned today
having obeyed the native
10to sleep instead of going
to Matipa = bought food
and then believed that the
islet Chirube was too far
off and returned with a
15most lame story = We shall
make the best of it by going
Nor-West to be near the
islets & buy food till we
can communicate
20with Matipa = If he fails
us by fair means we
must sieze canoes &
go by force = the men say
fear of me makes them
25act very cowardly
0097
I have gone among the
whole population
kindly & fairly but I fear
that I must now act
5more rigidly for when
they hear that we have
submitted to injustice
they at once conclude
that we are fair game
10for all and they go to
lengths in dealing
falsely that they would
never otherwise attempt
It is I can declare not
15my nature nor has it
been my practice to go
as if my "back were up"
19th February 1873
A cold wet morning
keeps us in an uncom-
-fortable spot = when it
5clears up we go to an old
stockade to be near an
islet to buy food = people
knowing o[ ]r need are
extortionate
Went on at 9 AM over
an extensive water covered
plain = I was carried 3
miles to a canoe and
then in it we went West
15in branches of Luena
very deep & flowing W.
for 3 hours - we were
then near enough to hear
Bangweolo bellowing -
20water on the plain 4.5
7 feet = rushes & ferns
and papyrus = arums
2 Lotuses in abundance
0099
many dark grey cater-
-pillars clung to the grass
& were knocked off as
we paddled or poled - camped
5in an old village of Matipa
where in West we see Luena
enter the Lake - but all is
flat Prairie or Buga
filled with fast flowing
10water save a few islets
covered with palms & trees
It continued sprinkling
us from N.W. all morning
Elephants had visited
15over the ruins eating a
species of grass in seed -
It resembles millet &
the donkey is fond of it -
I have seen this & another
20species of grass in seed only
eaten by the Elephas Afric-
-ana = trees & bulbs fruits
are his dainties also
Ants whose hills he overturns
19th February 1873 continued
A large party in canoes
came to us with food
as soon as we reached
5our new quarters had
heard of us in search of
Matipa = All are eager
for calico though they
have only raw cassava
10to offer for it - they are
clothed in bark cloth and
skins - without canoes
no movement can be
made for all is water
15everywhere = water
above & water below
20th Feby 1873 = Sent a
request to a friendly
20man to give me men
and a large canoe to
go myself to Matipa
says he will let me
0101
know today if he
can. Heavy rain
by night & drizzling
by day -
He has not come
but we are getting food
enough for all and
Matipa will hear of
us soon as he did
10when we came and
returned back for food
Engaged another
man to send a canoe
to Matipa & shewed
15him his payment
but retain it here
till he comes back -
Men demanded
beads & cloth to be
20spent by them = refused
as they buy beads{grass}
with the beads
21st February 1873
The man engaged refused
to go = they have no
5honour Raining
and uncomfortable but
people bring food for sale
another man spoken to
to go to Matipa explained
10that they had to pass
an islet before getting
to Chirube & run the risk
of being killed by the hostile
islanders = It is so wet
15we can do nothing -
22nd Rainy morning
I was ill all yesterday
but escape fever by
20Haemo.rr A heavy
mantle of N.W clouds
comes daily floating
over us = no Astro.
obsns can possibly be made
25never was in such
misty cloudy weather in
Africa
9 AM A man turned
up to carry our message
to Matipa & Susi and Chuma
and went with him The
5good Lord go with them
and lend me influence
& grant me help -
23d S. service = Rainy
24th tried hard for a
Lunar but moon was
lost in glare of the sun
25th did not rain till
154 - 5 PM & then from N.W.
as usual = People
bring food for sale
from far but hold out
for cloth which is
20inconvenient -
Susi not appearing
may mean that the
men are preparing
canoes & food to
25transport us
26th February 1873 -
Susi returned this morn
ing with good news
5from Matipa who declares
his willingness to carry
us to Kabende for the
five bundles of brass
wire I offered = He is not
10on Chirube but amid
the swamps of the main
land on Lake's North side -
Immense swampy
prairies all around
15except at Kabende -
Matipa is at variance
with his brothers on
the subject of lordship
of the lands and the
20produce of the Elephants
which are very numerous -
I am devoutly thankful
to the Giver of all for
favouring me so far
25and hope that he may
continue his kind aid
No mosquitoes
here though Speke at
the Victoria Nyanza
5said they covered
the bushes and grass
in myriads and
struck against the
hands & face most
10disagreably
[26th] Near confluence of the R
Luena with Bangweolo
3 PM clouded over
15{figure}
27th February 1873
waiting for other canoes
to be sent by Matipa = His
5men say that there is
but one large river on the
South side of Bañgweolo
and called Luomba
They know the mountains
10on the South East as I
do and on the West -
but say that they dont
know any on the
middle of the watershed
15They plead their youth for
[ ]{knowing} so little
Phacochoerus Aliani
warthog
{figure}
Boiling point = Noon
{figure}
Found that the ^ column of mercury
was parted in two of the
5thermometers by vol falling
in trying to unite the column
I broke No 2 - No 1 useless.
Matipa's men proposed
to take half our party
10tomorrow but I refuse
to divide our force
they say that Matipa
is truthful
28 February 1873
No night rain after 8 PM
for a wonder - Baker
5had 1500 men in health
on 15th June 1870 at Lat
9° 26' N. and 160 on
sick list = many dead
Liberated 305 slaves -
10his fleet was 32 vessels
wife & he well = I wish
that I met him -
Matipa's men not
having come = it is said -
15they are employed bringing
the carcase of an elephant
to him I propose to go
near to him tomorrow = some
in canoes & some on foot
20The good Lord help me
New ☾ this evening
1st March 1873
embarked women and
goods in canoes and
5went 3 hours S.E. to
Bangweolo = stopped
on an island where
people were drying
fish over fires =
10Heavy rain wet us
all as we came near
the islet - drops as
large as half crown
pieces by the marks
15they made = We went
over flooded prairie
4 ft deep & covered with
rushes and two varieties
of Lotus or sacred lilly
20both are eaten and so
is Papyrus = buffaloes
at a loss in the water
1st March 1873 continued
Three canoes behind = men
great cowards = I took
5possession of all the
paddles & punting poles
as the men shewed
an inclination to move
off from our islet - the
10water in the country is
prodigiously large
plains extending further
than the eye can reach
have 4 or 5 feet deep of
15clear water and the
Lake & adjacent lands
for 20 or 30 miles are
level = We are on a
miserably dirty fishy
20islet called Motovinza and all are
damp - surrounded
by scores of miles of
rushes = an open sward
and many Lotus plants
25but no mosquitoes
2nd March It took 7½
hours punting to bring
us to Matipa on an
5island and then the
miserable weather
rained constantly on
our landing into the
Boma which is well
10peopled = The Prairie
is 10 hours long or
about 30" by punting
Matipa is on an
island too with four
15bomas on it - a river
the Molonga runs
past it & is a protection
Men wear a curious
head dress of skin
20or hair & large up-
right ears
3d March 1873 at
Matipa's = paid off
the men who brought
us here = Matipa
5says that 5 sangos
or coils which I
offered will do to
take us to Kabende -
I sincerely hope that
10they will = His canoes
are off bringing the
meat of an elephant
Many dogs in vil.
used to hunt and
15bring elephants to
bay
Noon visited Matipa
an old man slow of
tongue and self possessed
20recommended our
crossing to South bank
0113
of Lake to his brother
who has plenty of cattle
and to go along that
side where there are
5few rivers and plenty
to eat = Kabende land
was lately over run
by Banyamwesi who
now inhabit that
10country but as yet
have no food to sell.
Moanzabamba was
the founder of the Ba-
-bisa tribe and used
15the curious plait of
hair that makes
curious large ears
I am rather in a
difficulty as I fear that
I must give the five
coils for a much shorter
5task but it is best not
to appear unfair though
I will be the loser He
sent a man to catch a
sampa for me = the
10largest fish in the Lake &
promised to have men
ready to cross for mine
tomorrow -
Matipa never heard
15from any of the elders
of his people that any of
his forefathers ever
saw a European = He
knew perfectly about
20Pereira = Lacerda &
Monteiro going towards
Cazembe and my coming
to the islet Mpabala
0115
No trace seems to exist
of Captain Singleton's
march =
Matipa is deeply marked
5by smallpox -
Native name of Pereira
is Moenda Mondo
--- of Lacerd = Charlie -
-- of Monteiro's party
10Makabalwe or the
donkey men = but
no other name is heard
4th March 1873 sent
canoes off to bring our
5men over to the island
of Matipa = they brought
ten but donkey could
not come as far through
the TingaTinga as they -
10and they took it back
for fear that it should
perish = spoke to Matipa
this morning to send
more canoes & he consent to
15We move outside as
town swarms with
0117
mice & is very closely
built & disagreable -
this is a sandy islet and
about 80 feet above the
5level of Lake = others were
of black loam & very
disagreable found
mosquitoes in the
town
5th time runs on quickly
Long. 31° 3' = Lat. 11° 11' S
Men not arrived yet
Matipa very slow
6th building a camp
outside the town for
quiet & cleanliness
and no mice to run
20over us at night
This islet is some 20 or
30 feet above the general
flat country and water
adjacent
6th March 1873 contind
3 PM moved up to
the highest part of the
island where we can
5see around us and
have the fresh breeze
from the Lake = Raining
as we went up as usual
7th we expect our men
today - I tremble for the
Donkey - camp sweet
and clean but it too has
mosquitoes from which
15a curtain protects me
completely - a great
luxury but unknown to
the Arabs I have spoken to
about it - Abed was
20overjoyed by one I made
for him, others are
used to their bites as
was the man who said
that he would get used to
0119
a nail through the heel
of his shoe -
Men came at 3PM
but 8 had to remain
5the canoes being too
small = the donkey had to
be tied down as he
rolled about on his
legs & would have forced
10his way out = bit Spekes
lame hand and came
stiff from lying all
day tied = shampooed
him all over but he
15could not eat dura -
feels all sore - Susi did
well in the circumstances
and we had plenty of
flour ready for all -
20Chanza is near Kabinga
and this last is coming
to visit me in a day
or two
8th I Press Matipa to get
a fleet of canoes equal to
our number = He complains
of his canoes having
5been stolen by rebel subjects
says that Kabinga
his brother would have
been here some days
ago but for having a
10son killed by an elephant
and he is mourning for
him but he will come
soon - Kabinga is on
the other side Chambeze
a party of male &
female drummers and
dancers is sure to turn
up at every village = the
first here had a leader
20who used such violent
antics the sweat ran off
his whole frame = I gave
a few strings of beads
but the performance
25is repeated today by
0121
another lot and 0 rebel
and allow them to leave
me me unheeded
{figure}
We got a sheep for a
wonder for a doti =
fowls and fish alone
could be bought but
10Kabinga has plenty
of cattle = Raining
The eight men came
from Motovinza this
afternoon and now
15the whole party is joined
Donkey now shews
many sores inflicted
by the careless people
think that force alone
20can be used to inferior
animals
10th a wet night makes
everything damp and
uncomfortable
{figure} {figure}
11th Matipa says wait
Kabinga is coming &
he has canoes = Time
is of no value to him
10His wife is making
pombe for him and
that will drown all
his cares but mine
increase & plague me
Matipa & wife sent
each a huge calabash
of pombe - I wanted only
a little to make bread with
but better news the
20son of Kabinga is to
come this evening &
we shall concoct
0123
measures together
12th the news were
false = no one came
5from Kabinga = strung
beads today and I
wrote out part of
my despatch for
Earl Granville ^ insert here
13th Went to Matipa &
proposed to begin the
exportation of my men
at once as they were
15many and he has
not canoes sufficient
to take more than a
few at a time = has
sent off a big canoe to
20reap his millet - when
it returns he will send
us over to see for
ourselves where we
can go = explained the
25danger of setting my men asteady
14th Rains have ceased
for a few days
Went down to Matipa
and tried to take his likeness
5for the sake of the curious
hat he wears. |Engrave|
15th Finish so far my
Despatch {figure}
[ ] here
16th S. service - spoke
sharply to Matipa for his
15duplicity = he promises
everything and does no-
-thing = He has in fact no
power over his people =
Ill all day = bowels =
Matipa says that a
large canoe will come
tomorrow & next day men
will go to Kabinga to
reconoitre = there may be
0125
a hitch there which we
did not take into account
Kabinga's son killed
by an elephant may
5have complications -
blame may be attached to
Matipa, and in their
dark minds it may all
appear important to
10settle the affair before
having communication
with him
17th The delay is most
15trying = so many detentions
have occurred they ought
to have made me of a
patient spirit
As I thought Matipa told
20us toay that he has been
reported to have got some
Arabs who will attack
all the Lake people forth
with and he is anxious
25for us to go over and
let them see we are peaceful
18th send off men to
reconoitre at Kabiñga's
and make a camp
Rain began again after
5nine days dry weather -
NW but in morning
thin fleecy clouds came
from SE. in patches
Matipa acting the villain
10& my men afraid of him =
they are all cowards &
say that they are afraid
of me only - this is an
excuse only for timidity -
19th March 1873
thanks to the Almighty
Preserver of men for
sparing me thus far
5on the journey
of life = can
I hope for ultimate
success = ? = so many
obstacles have arisen =
10Let not Satan prevail
over me, Oh my good
Lord Jesus =
8 AM got about twenty
people off to canoes =
15Matipa not friendly
they go over to Kabinga
on South W. side of
Chambeze, and thence
we go overland -
209 AM = men come back &
reported Matipa false
0131
again = but one canoe
had come = Made a
demonstration by
taking quiet possession
5of his village & house =
fired a pistol, and called
men = ten being left to
gaurd camp - Matipa
fled to another village -
10People sent off at once
and they brought three
canoes - so at 11 AM -
men embarked quietly -
they go across Chambeze
15and build a camp on
its left bank = All
Kabinga's cattle
quite wild = are
driven into the
20water, and pursued
like buffaloes when
one is wanted for
meat - no milk is
ever obtained of course -
20th March 1873 - Cold
& cloudy N.W weather but
rainfall small as the
South East stratum comes
5down below the NW by day
N.W. rain at Noon
Afternoon - Matipa sent
two large baskets of flour
(cassava =) a sheep & a cock
10Hoped that we should
remain with him till the
water of overflood dried -
and help him to fight
his enemies but I
15explained our delays &
desire to finish our work
and meet Baker - will
visit him tomorrow
21st very heavy N.W rain
& thunder by night & morning -
Gave Matipa a coil of
thick brass wire and his
wife a string of large
25neck beads = and explained
my hurry to be off = He
is now all fair and
promises largely
0133
has been much frightened
by our warlike demon
stration - glad I had to do
nothing but make a
5shew of force
22nd Susi not returned
from Kabinga = Hope
that he is getting canoes
10and men from Kabinga
to transport us all at
one voyage = It is flood
as far as the eye can
reach = flood 4 - 6 ft
15deep or more = with 3
species of rushes
2 kinds of Lotus or
sacred lillies = Papyrus
arum &c one does
20not know where
land ends & Lake
begins = the presence
of land grass says
this is not always
25flooded = water stands at two
feet below highest lands
23d March 1873
Men returned at noon
Kabinga mourning for
5his son killed by an
elephant continues
in seclusion =
camp formed on
right{left} bank of the
10Chambeze =
24th people took the
canoes away but
in fear sent for them
15- got 4 & started with all
our goods - gave a
present that no blame
should follow me -
punted 6 hours ^ S.E. to a
20little islet without a tree,
and no sooner did
we land than a most
pitiless pelting rain
came on = turned up
0135
a boat & got shelter -
We shall reach the
Chambeze tomorrow -
Wind tore tent out of
5our hands & tore it too -
loads all soaked, and
with the cold bitterly
uncomfortable = A
man put my bed
10into the bilge & never
said = "bale out", so
I was safe for a
wet night, but it
turned out better
15than I expected =
no grass = but we
made a bed of the
loads, and a blanket
fortunately put into 6 SE.
20a bag = The power
of the air is an old fool
25th March 1873 -
make me give up
5my work in despair -
I encourage myself
in the Lord my God
and go forward = got
off from our miserably
10small islet of 40 yards
at 7 AM = a grassy
sea on all sides
with a few islets in
the far distance = 4
15variieties of rushes
round = triangular &
fluted - rise from
18 inches to two feet
above water = the
20caterpillars seem to
eat each other &
a web is made
0137
round others = the
[ ] in the midst
or rather the numerous spiders
may have been the
5workman of the mesh -
The wind makes a sound
on the rushes like the
waves of the sea = the
flood extends out in
10slightly depressed arms
of Lake for 20 or 30 miles
and far too broad to be
seen over = fish abound
and anthills alone lift
15up their heads with
bees on them =
Loangwa is an islet
Lukutu goes from E to W to
Chambeze =
20Lubanseuse goes into Do
After another 6 hours
punting over the same
wearisome prairies
or Buga we heard the
25merry voices of children
25th March contd - It was
a large village on a flat
which seems flooded
at times, but much
5cassava is planted on
mounds made to
protect the plants
from the water = Water
standing in the village
10but we got a dry spot
for the tent = people
offer us huts = Had
as usual a smart
shower in the way
We passed [ ] islet Luangwa
to & Kasenga to sleep 6 SE.
27{6}th we started at 7.30
and got into a large
20stream out of Chambeze
called Mabziwa - and
one canoe sank in it
and we lost a slave
girl of Amoda =
25fished up three boxes
& two guns = but
0139
the boxes being of cartridges
were much injured =
lost donkey's saddle -
cross Lubanseuse
5near its confluence w
Chambeze = 300 yds &
3 fathoms deep = slow current
many cattle on an
islet of Kabinga, quite
10wild, & never milked.
islet called Kalilo &
near confluence -
crossed Chambeze
about 400 yards & a
15quick ^ clear current ^ of 2 knots = 3 fathoms
like Lubanseuse but
it was slow but clear also in current =
one great loch after
another with thick
20mats of hedges of aquatic
plants between = water
enormous in quantity
five hours to camp 5 [ ]{S}E.
27th March 1873 = Send the
canoes and men back to
Matipa's to bring all the
people who remained = told
5them to ship them at once
on arriving, and not to
make any talk about it.
Kabinga keeps his distance
from us and food is
10scarce = Noon he sent a
man to salute me in his
name =
28th Making a pad for
15Donkey to serve instead
of a saddle = Kabinga
attempts to sell a sheep
at an exhorbitant
price = says that he is
20weeping over his dead
child - Mabruki Speke's
hut fired by night
cartridge box burned
29th bought a sheep for
a hundred strings of
0141
beads = I wished to begin
the exchange by being
generous & told his
messenger so = then a
5small quantity of maize
was brought and I
grumbled at the mean
-ness of the present = there
is no use in being
10bashful as they are not
ashamed to grumble too
the man said that
Kabinga would send
more when he had
15collected it -
30th S - a lion roars
nightly = the fish hawk
utters his weird voice
20in the mornings as if
he lifted it up to a
friend at a great distance
in a sort of falsetto key
30th March 1873 contd
6 AM confce of Chambeze
{figure}
{figure}
{figure}
5 PM men returned but
the large canoe having been
broken by the donkey
we have to go back &
10pay it & take away
about 20 men now left -
Matipa kept all the
payment from his
own people, and so left
15us in the lurch = thus
another five days lost
New ☾ this evening
31st March 1873 send
20the men back to Matipa's
for all our party - Islanders
are always troublesome
from a sense of
0143
security in their fast-
-nesses = I give two dotis
to repair the canoe
Made stirrups of thick
5brass wire four fold =
They promise to do well
Sent Kabinga a cloth
and a message but he is
evidently a niggard like
10Matipa - but we must
take him as we find
him - There is no use
in growling
Seven of our men
15returned having got a
canoe from one of
Matipa's men =
Kabinga pleased with
the cloth said that he
20would ask for maize
from his people and
buy it for me = He has
rice growing = says that
he will send a canoe to
25carry me over next river
1st April 1873
got a snatch of Babisa
tradition = see end of book
2nd Men will come today
{figure} {figure}
S[ ]{na}p Lunars = two sets
10with difficulty from clouds
Temp 85º Bar 25.80.
3d very heavy rain last
six inches fell in a short time
15Men all come from
Matipa =
4th send over to Kabinga to buy
a cow = Kambari fish of
20Chambeze 3 ft 3 in. in length
- bought a fat cow for 2½ dotis
to give the party a feast ere we
start pass a few
pups
Simbamwene 5{4}
days from coast
They all go up Chambeze
15as rains begin to spawn
a carp Pumbo
Cazembe's people make
{figure} caviare of
spawn
The wonderful absorption
by the sand of Atbara
shews the impotence
of the Blue N to contend
5unaided with the Nubian
& exists which were it
not for the steady volume
of the WN would drink
every drop of water
10before the river could
pass the 25th degree of Lat
Atbara 45 yds 25 to 30
feet deep during rainy season
Junction of the 2 Niles
is a vast flat as far as
the eye can being about
2' some distance
above this point = Nile
20 [&] Solias bank full in January
120 yds - 27 feet deep
earthy matter of a red colour
is carried by Blue river
Atbara is dry for 150'
from March to June
5Blue Nile falls too low
for vessels to transport
the grain to Kartum
rain of Abyssinia
begins in May but
10torrents do not fall till
the middle of June
In middle of June WN
is at a considerable
height but not its highest
Blue N & Atbara
allow the entire drainage
of Abyssinia and the
sudden rush of water
descending from its
20Hglands into the main
channel causes the
annual inundation
Extensive marshes
near B Gazal formed
by surplus water of White
Nile flowing into a depression
5No water mark on trees
in January 7th
made him think that the
actual rise of the water level
during the rainy season
10is very trifling as the
water extends over a pro-
-digious extent of surface
the river having no banks p34
The river is like an
entangled skein of thread
no wonder the ancients
gave up exploration when
they came to the countless
20windings & difficulties
of the marshes 34p
White Nile has a disagreable
taste of vegetation -
25The Blue Nile is clear &
delicious if not in flood
6th borders of Lake Noon .45
Night - & early morn - 21
Total of 6th up to 8 .66
5 .52
9th Monikazi R. 7 PM.
NW θ .60
Do 11th 3 PM SE θ .95
13th Lotikila R - SE θ .6
16 R Lombatwa 5.65
157 - 9 PM SE. θ + = 44
On 16th night 6.09
Total up to 16th April 16.22
inclusive
17 Opposite 3 hills 1 PM θ .5
Do : Do 4 PM W θ .24
Total 17th 16.51
on 11th March 1873
Rainfall Bangweolo =
April 1873 θ for Thunder
1st April Kabinga's 1 PM E. Ɵ .10
15Do 3 - 4 PM E & SE Ɵ ---- .80
Do 2nd 7 - 8 PM = E. Ɵ 5.32
Do Do later 9 - 11 PM Ɵ .71
To 2nd April === (6.93)
Do 3d 1 PM S.E. R Ɵ .17
Do Do 6 - 7 PM SE Ɵ .61
Do Do later 15
Nor West dark & thick
masses were still above
it slowly passing to S.E.
and imparting cold to us
18th 1 - 6 AM NW Ɵ .82
[Do] 19th 8 PM S.E & NE .24
20th Bangweolo Noon N.W. Ɵ .45
^ 21 night & morn. NW Ɵ 2.03
21st Nil shower = night
22 = 7 PM Ɵ NW & NE. .16
24th at islet 4 PM SE Ɵ
wind tore tent out of hand .78
up to 24th March == 11.64
27th 6 PM. E Ɵ .14
28th Chambeze 3 = 4 PM.
25NW rolling Ɵ = .35
29th Do 4 PM NW Ɵ .38
Do Do 6 PM NW Ɵ .31
Do Do 8 PM NW Ɵ .30
Rainfall of March === 13.12
on Watershed
continued next page
Ɵ for thunder
Rainfall Bangweolo
Lobisa = March 1873 -
1st islet Motovinza
5Brt forward .76
2nd Islet Mosumba
of Matipa 7 - 8 PM
NW. Ɵ 2.20
9 PM Do .19
3d Matipa's 5 - 7 AM NW 52
Midnight Ɵ .31
4th Do Midnight = NW Ɵ .55
6th Do eve & night NE.
S.E & NW latest Ɵ .67
7th Do night & early morn .64
9th gentle rain SW. 8 - 9 AM .18
through night S.E. silent 1.15
14th Do 7 PM Ɵ NW .5
25On this day the (9th) the the 78
South East stratum became
the lower stream = a shower
fell from it of only .5 On
17th fleecy clouds still
30flowed from S.E. but
A male Insobe had
faint white stripes
5across the back &
one well marked
yellow stripe along
the spine = the hips
had a few faint
10white spots which
shewed by having
longer hair than
the rest - A kid had
white belly
R Ikampolobam-
ba or Ikal
I-kampolombo
largest R of Kabende
Kabinga brother
of Matipa on other or
S. side Lake
Chifunaburi R
Muanakatongo R
W of Kabende
incha = poku
mokobe = otter
15 Insobe = Nzoe
a branch of the Chambeze
the Malonga comes
20past Matipas town
Mansamuria islet
has goats on our SW
Karima NW
Kasimoloba SW
Mabruki Speke
cartridge box & belt to
be paid 28th March 73
Ghamees = a sword
The roe of Pumbo is very
large and the people dry
5it over fires as preserved
provisions = Sampa is
the largest fish in Lake
and is caught by a hook
Mosumbo is Matipa's
10isle = Luena goes in
to Bangweolo kua
Islandangao
Kabende river far off
Muanakatonga
Chifunaburi
R Luomba the largest
10on South side
Kabende chiefs
expelled
by Banyam
wezi
15 Mokoso
Kaloko
Kubula of islet in
Luapula arm
Mphombo is chief
of Chirube
Luapula [ ] from
Mpabala is 50'
while the stealing [ ]
"Retard its motion & forbid
its waste" Thomson
"incessant weeping of
5these drains" Do
"secrets of the dark abyss"
"the full adjusted harmony
of things" Do
"Many a cool translucent
10brimming flood" Do
"The chief
of human race - the large
ambitious wish to
make them blest - the sigh
15for suffering worth" &c
"the fearless great resolve"
"For sluggards know the
laurel never grows
20Renown is not the child
of indolent repose" Do
Castle of Indolence
would go with Stanley
not for pay but to be
respectably employed -
When he laughs it is
5only with his mouth
His small somewhat
deformed eyes look
serious & scan you
as they move from side
10to side - When in difficulty
or in fear the mouth
takes on the grin it
does in feigned laughing
He lifted Speke out of
15the disagreable position
of being a silent looker on
in all Burton's con-
versations with the
country people and
20Speke naturally felt
very grateful to him
Before getting him Speke
sat on his bottom "only
Bombay has the Yao
peculiarities exaggerated
very timid & very apt
in making excuses
5however false = He
volunteered to go with
me but Grant said he
is ^ such a fine fellow for
humbugging the natives"
10- this was enough as I
felt sure he was Do Do
for his employers -
He seemed ashamed that
I did not jump at the
15offer of his company
and to smooth the dis-
-appointment I said
that I had men enough
already - He turned this
20rebuff to his own
advantage by telling
Mr Stanley that I asked
him to go but though
he refused me he
her a little food as she
was weakened greatly
by the starvation we
endured before I knew
5Two of the women became
tired of her and the man
has proved more
kind hearted than they
5th April 1873 = March
from Kabinga - luggage in
canoes & men on land = on
15flood 6 ft deep with many
anthills covered with trees
course SSE. for 5 miles to
across Lobingela 300 yds
6th leave in same way
but Kabinga's men were
sent to steal the canoes
party separated = 6 or 7
hours SW in great
25difficulty
A poor little girl was
deserted by her Banyamwezi
mother - when escaping
from a man with whom
5she had travelled some
weeks = I overheard the
men attributing this
heartlessness to the
mother being now pregnant
10This is believed to cause
cooling of the affections
towards the children
already begotten for a
mother having left her
15child in climbing up a
steep mountain side
with a load intending to
go back for it was caught
by Hassani and he
20made a faint of killing
the child still unborn
in order to deter her
from deserting the other
This little girl walks
25wonderfully = I send
5 PM NW Ɵ .28
9.40
1st March 1873 Lake
1 - 2 PM S.E. Ɵ .64
8 PM NW. Ɵ .12
Rainfall /in 72
November 1872 = 8.41
Rainfall
December 1872 in
15Uruñgu or Buurungu
January 17{=} = in17.[ ]8
1873 15{=} = 15.04
To February Total = 40.83
20Total February = 9.40
Total up 1st March = 50.23
Total of March = 13.12
Total R.F. to 1st April = 63.35
Total up to 16 April = 16 22
25added to March = 79.57
16 April 10 29
Total of year 79 86
Ɵ for Thunder
13th February 1873 Rainfall
Lofubatze Rt 4 AM .39
15th Nil showers on 14th
5then night & morning
steady rain NW .80
Brought ford page ante
3.06
Total of Feby to 15th 4.25
17th Feby Luena 6 = to Noon .43
18th Do - 9 AM N.W. Ɵ .10
Do Do 2 PM NW Ɵ .16
5 PM .21
19th Do Showery all
night & moring NW .34
A N.W. sprinkling till 2 PM
20th Midnight NW 1.04
21st drizzling Nil
6 PM smart shower
and early morn = NW .31
22 - Nil shower
24th - Luena 7 - 8 PM Ɵ .34
25th Do 4 - 5 PM NW Ɵ .38
26 5 PM Nil shower
3 - 4 PM Luena NW Ɵ 1.56
Rainfall 1st Feby 1873
Scouts Buga 7 AM .16
12' NW of Do 3 PM
5NW Ɵ ------ .70
3d Do Nil night showers
-- Luena R. 5 PM NW Ɵ
very heavy rain & winds .75
10continued steady all .28
night - silent
3rd Malalansi Rt Nil shower
at noon = wetting only -
154 PM Nil shower Ɵ.
6th Night of still rain = .20
7th Malalansi - 1 PM
20NW. Ɵ - .16 = 4 - 6
PM stead rain .52 = .68
8th 4 PM SW & S with
very loud near Ɵ .10
25During night + .19 = .29
10th drizzle from
4 AM to 1 PM & then
4 PM - not measured
30but everything wet
11 Drizzle 4 - 5 AM Nil
Total 3.06
Brought forward from
4 pages back = Rainfall
in Lobemba & Bangweolo
in January 1873 in
Brt forward == 24th 10.20
24th Rivulet near the
LovuNkwala 4 - 6 PM NW Ɵ .62
After dark steady .48
26th Lofubu 2 PM NW Ɵ .6
27 East of Lofubu Noon NW Ɵ .18
---- --- 4 - 5 PM NW Ɵ - .29
28 Do night steady down
pour for hours - .50
29th No rain but N.W. stratum lines
of clouds flying fast - the upper
20or SE stratum going slower
and spread out into thin
flakes of cat's hair
8 PM came on with Ɵ .11
and continued all night [ ]
25 - at Scouts Buga 1.75
30th cont at Scouts Buga
4 - 5 PM NW Ɵ - .85
Total Rain Jany 15.04
30near Bangweolo
a small caterpillar
seems to have been deposited
in egg in the upper part of
the corn safes - It descends
5by means of spiders web
sort of thread that comes from
its mouth = then abandons
its rope and commences to
eat grass which speedily
10increases its bulk = It is
black with a double yellow
bar along its entire length
this opens at the head & allows
a round black spot there - then
15it opens below the neck
behind & shews two elevated
velvetty black spots & one
more above the tail = yellow
spots along the sides and
20all covered with a whitish
hair which enters the
pores of the skin & causes
much irritation - Furjilla
climbed into a corn safe
25and his eyelids were so
swelled as nearly to blind him
When punishing
the thieves the headman
25said let them alone but
I refused & told him
that it was to prevent
thieving in front as
well as pain for the
30present acts = they
refused to go to buy
food when sent with
beads today & Manua=
-sera weakly called out
35bassi bassi enough
enough = as if to appear
more tender hearted than I
knew that the great
rains were over
This coincides
with my previous
5observation that the
during the great
rains the Nor West
stratum of clouds
changes place with
10the South East &
becomes the lower
cold stratum = the
South East has
most of the winds
15of the afian = [ ]{and}
the thunder storms
It causes the Lichens
and the direction of
the trees & branches
I have the pleasure -- that
on - I at last succeeded
in reaching four remarkable
fts each of which at no great
5distance off becomes ------
and which possibly may
be the same that were
mentioned to Herodotus
in Egypt some four
10hundred years before our
Era as the sources of the
Nile - they rise &c
14th January 1873
An old Mobisa gave
me the important
fact today that the
rains from the North
20West prevailed during
all the rainy season
and when they began
to come from the
South East they
8th 4 - 6 AM Ɵ 1.52
7 - 11 AM quiet .13
[10th] Noon Ɵ in SE & rain NW .38
55 - 6 PM NW Ɵ .18
11th January steady &
quiet all night - NW .62
drizzly & showery all
10day = cold = quiet .21
12 vil near Chambeze
1 - 2 PM SE Ɵ .12
13th 6 AM N.W. .6
[Do] near Chambeze Ɵ 6 - 10 AM 5.8
14th Nil shower in way
NW stratum below - going fast
20S.E. above = thin = much faster
20th Lofu or Lovu of Chambeze
1 PM NW Ɵ .19
21st 5 AM silent .10
22nd Nil showers and
drizzle not measured
23d several Nil 10.20
showers during night
and morning = cold see 4
pages
forward
24th drizzle at 6 AM &
at 1 PM - Nil in gauge
For December Rainfall
in Urungu see near
beginning of this notebook
Total Rainfall in Urungu
5in December 1872
== 17.38
January 2d 1873 in
district of Kuzinga near
10R Luongo 5 PM Ɵ .18
During night Ɵ ..15
5th Situngulu R 3 - 5 AM .66
- - 7 AM NW cold .9
5th 2½ hours South at 1.02
1 - 2 PM NW then round
to NE. The most I ever
measured = I doubted 9.45
it but was assured it
20was very heavy rain (?4 in.)
6th vil 3 Hours S. of the above
Ketebe's son = 10 - 11 AM .18
3 - 4 SW .9
7th 1 - 6 AM silent NW .45
7 - 8 AM NW silent .20
9 - 10 AM NW --- .8
Noon ---------- .9
30 82
How is it that the smallest
ants select the most
tender or vulnerable
parts of man for attack?
5The nape of the neck
may be chosen by the
clothes leading up to
that part but then
they prefer the tender
10skin in the flexure of
the fingers & worry
where their bite gives
real pain
Lokeleñañga = & one
dog - & mark of his
staff = & hatchet with
which he cut a stick
Uchéwa place
20L. came from West on a
mat across Lualaba
1st April 1873
A small snatch of Bisa
ancient lore - they say
25Uchéwa is SE of this
Manyuema as the
Luá & Machila are
of inky blackness
and make the whole
5main stream of a very
dark Nilotic hue - [ ]{A}n
acquaintance with these
dark flowing rivers
and scores of rills
10of water tinged as dark
as strong tea was all
my reward for plunging
through the terrible
Manyuema mud or
15"glaur"
Christmas 1872
Chikokoma earthquake
2 years ago at Kabinga
Muanza-bamba first
of Babisa
the vis inertiae of the
more slowly moving river
and both united pass
on to form the great
5inundation of the year
in lower Egypt
The Blue river brings
down the heavier
portion of the Nile
10deposit while the
White river comes
down with the black
finely divided matter
from thousands of
15^ square miles of Forest in
Manyuema which
probably gave the
Nile its name &
is in fact the real
20fertilizing ingredient
in the mud that is
annually left - some
of the rivers in
Chama's son gives the
true account of Cazembe's
death which the Arabs
would fain claim the
5merit of = later I doubt
his tale as Banyam
-wezi contradict it
The White Nile carry -
10forward its large quasi
tidal wave presents a
mass of water to the
Blue Nile which acts
as a Buffer to its
15rapid flood - the White
Nile being at a considerable
height when the Blue
rushes down its
steep slopes presents
20its brother Nile with
a soft cushion into
which it plunges &
is restrained - by
The pugnacious spirit
is one of the necessities of
life = When people have
little or none of it, they are
5subjected to indignity &
loss = My men walk into
huts where we pass the
nights without asking any
leave and steal cassava
10without shame - I have to
threaten and thrash to
keep them honest, while
if at a village having
a little pugnacity they
15are as meek as sucking
doves - the peace plan
involves indignity and
wrong - I give a little
presents to the headmen
20and to some extent
heal their hurt sensibilities
This deed is much
appreciated & produces
profuse hand clapping
16th Decr 1872 very rainy
weather = partial showers
on some part every day -
cloudy & thundering but
5the sponges are yet dry -
Floods by these sporadic
rainfalls have discoloured
water as seen in Lopanza
& Lolela today - grass all
10springing quickly up &
Maliza growing fast.
The trees generally in full
foliage - Different shades
of green the dark prevailing
15especially along rivulets
The hills in the distance
are covered with dark blue
haze = Here in Lobemba
they are gentle slopes of
20about 200 or 300 feet &
sandstone crops out over
their tops = In some parts
clay schists which look
as if they had been
25fused or much baked
by intense heat -
14th Decr 1872 a leech
crawling towards me in
the village this morning
5elicited the Bemba idea
that they fall from the
clouds = or sky = "mulu"
It is called here "Mosumda
a maluze" or leech of the
10rivers = Luba the Zanzibar
name = (Mokopa Rt) here
18th counted nineteen leeches
on our path in about a
15mile = rain had fallen
and their appearance
out of their hiding places
suddenly after heavy rain
may have given rise
20to the idea of their fall
with it as fishes do -
and the Thunder frog
is supposed to do -
By putting leaven in a bottle
& keeping it from one baking to
another or 3 days good bread
is made & the dough being
5surrounded by banana
leaves - or Maize leaves -
or forest leaves of hard texture
and no taste or simply by
broad leafy grass is pre-
10-served from burning in
an iron pot - The inside
of the pot ^ or leaves is greased then
the leaves put in all round
and the dough poured in to
15stand and rise in the sun -
When Palm oil palms
are cut down for toddy
they are allowed to lie
20three days - then the top
shoot is cut off smoothly
and the toddy begins to
flow - and it flows for
a month or a month
25and a half or so lying
on the soil -
P298. grassy & jungly depression
and arrived at a deep dirty viscid
nulla (a watercourse that runs only in
wet weather), draining the Eastern country
5into the Southern end of the creek = named at Jordan
299