Field Diary VII
David Livingstone


Date of composition: 26 December 1866 - 1 March 1867
Repository: David Livingstone Centre, Blantyre, United Kingdom
Shelfmark: 1128
Clendennen & Cunningham number(s): Field Diaries, 020
Digital edition and date: Livingstone Online, 2017
Publisher: University of Maryland Libraries, College Park, MD, USA
Project ID: liv_000007
Critical encoding: Adrian S. Wisnicki, Megan Ward, Heather F. Ball, Christopher Lawrence, Ashanka Kumari, Samantha Fitch, Erin Cheatham
Encoding dates: 2015-02-12, 2015-02-13, 2015-02-21, 2015-02-23, 2015-02-24, 2015-02-27, 2015-03-03, 2015-03-08, 2015-04-18, 2015-06-15, 2015-09-23, 2015-11-17, 2015-11-30, 2015-12-15, 2016-12-06, 2017-11-20, 2017-11-21




0001
0002
0003

The relation of these rough
notes to the elaborated
Journal
is well seen in the
contrast in the form of this
5prayer put down on
January 1st.


In the notes there is
this simple, spontaneous
"Let Thy mercy & grace be
10upon me this year O God"
Compare with Journal
"May He who is full of grace
& truth impress his character
on mine. Grace, eagerness to
15show favour; truth, truth-
fulness sincerity, honour-
for His mercy's sake"
(Seems reminiscent of Dean
Stanley. See quotation at back
20of Rough Note Book V


0004


0005

VII. hr From Kavimba


{figure}
{figure}




5

a gap N of Kavimba's
in another range                  17°=13'
End of range ^ visible.         45°-1322






Φ set 24thDec1866
10at Kavimbas vil
262°






25 Decr 1866 - Leave
Kavimba's vil - where
15we could get but little
food & for exhorbitant
prices - with the intention
of spending another
Christmas day where

0006
we can have allelujahs
- march up Nyamasi
N. 1-30 + 45 + 50
= 3 - 5 + 20 = 3-25


5

Kavimba who is a
great hunter went with
us in hopes that we might
get a Rhinoceros - Game
very abundant but
10all out of the way or
very wild what we happen
and       to get a glance of
make off at once - country very rich in
vegetation - new forms
15& insects - a climbing
plant we rested under
was a foot in diameter
snails new - lost the
four milk goats &
20had to send back for them


0007

Kavimba is a smith
[&] is laden with fine
copper wire & has
killed some thirty eleph
5-ants - He hunts alone
with a boy only to
carry his big spears -
gets near the animal
{figure}
10& pitches his spear into
it {figure} His brother & wife
        were always scolding
        each other & every
        burst of it was ended
15        by him calling out
        "Bring the Muave"
        bring the Muave"
        could not find
        the goats so went
20        to a village which

0008
        was preoccupied
by a traveling party of
Babisa - went out
& built in the dark a
5shed and on morning
of 25{6}th Decr 1866 send
off all hands to make
another search for the
goats == a long one
10ended in nothing,
so tomorrow we
must go on without -
I am sorry for this
for I could do well
15on any kind of food,
so long as I had a
little milk along with
it - very sorry for the
loss but I shall try
20& feel resigned - a small
matter but a great one
to me in the circumstan


0009

27 Decr 1866 A
great deal of thunder
& rain in the night
but very little fell
5on our camp
- march
1 h - 20 m N. + 1 - 10 + 1 h
N NE. up rivulet bed
& up mountains =

Masuko & other upland
10trees abound - Leave
stratum of shingle which
in some place is 50
ft thick
lying on soft
greenish yellow sand
15stone & that on coarse
dark Do = find mica
schist & gneiss tilted
on edge or dipping
Southwards + 1 h -- 10

0010
up mountain sides
clothed with dark green
forest all over -- A
cloud of Tsetse followed
5us up from the hollow
below & remained all
the while we rested but
when we began to
increase our altitude
10they gradually dropped
off & left us


[=] 4 = 40 N & NNE
Away across the Valley
to South no edge is
15seen by in the S.E.
50 or 60 miles off the blue
rocky wall shuts up the
view - All is dark
green - the rains have
20been earlier here
& the

0011
gra[ ]{as}es have all run
up to seed - In many
parts in the valley the
cracks in the soil were
5still gaping open &
the grass just appearing
above the soil -


our guide begged for
prepayment so as
10not to appear a slave
without a cloth - gave
it & he soon ran away
from us - We were
guided here by the
15footsteps of the party
of Babisa we met
at Chonanga - met
two men looking
for honey by means
20of the Honey guide

0012
+20 to top of mountain
== 5 hours & half


28th Decr 1866
Sleep in the forest
5In the morning three
men going to hunt
for honey passed
& told us that we were
near to Momba
10Moerwa
's place
-
-- 1 - 15 to gardens of Do
+ 30 = 1 - 45 to Moerwa's




Motuna #         chiefs in
15front

Chafunga



Moerwa came to
visit me in my
20hut - a rather stupid
man - tried the

0013
usual little arts of
getting us to buy
everything here by
saying that there
5were no people in
front & famine at
Lobemba = We must
buy here & carry it -
On asking the names
10of next headmen he
would not tell and
I said to him he ought
to try & speak like a
man - Then he told us
15the next chief was
Motuna & after him
Chafunga - We have
nothing as we saw
no animals in
20our way & hunger

0014
is ill to bear


Two women were per
forming a rain dance
when we arrived with
5their faces smeared
with pipe clay - When
the rain came down
they ran about
carreoli{l}ing all over
10the place in triumph


The Babisa have the
round head like the
Waiyau and I have
seen a good many
15who would pass for
Bushmen or Hottentots
possibly the Babisa
& Waiyau are a

0015
mixture of bush &
other Africans - men
and women all wear the
hair plaited into a kind
5of net on the back part
of the head - noses
smaller than usual
Teeth filed to points &
it is fashionable to
10have the greater part of
the buttocks exposed
by wearing an untanned
hide or stiff bark cloth
no lip ring


15{figure}
0016
{figure}

a very rich ornithological
region & many new
plants & trees but I
5cannot carry any






29th Decr 1866
                Remain a day
at Moerwa's - the
10people here are
fugitives too from
the Mazitu and
have Maere alone
as food - This is
15a coarse kind

0017
of millet which
grates in the teeth
& stomach - chief
gave me a mess
5of it & elephants
stomach pretty
high but very
acceptable


Malambwe is
10name of Moerwa's
district


Mokumbi that range ^ in
front


30th Decr 1866 --
152 h - 5 m == + 40 m + 30 = 3 - 15
+ 40 + 45 + 35 =====
5         15 to Rt in Forest


The Babisa cultivate

0018
little round patches
wide apart from
each other with pum
-pkins & Maere or
5millet in order if
the Mazitu come they
may not be able to
carry off all the food
as they can do when
10that consists of one
large patch of sorghum
The pumpkins are
too heavy & the millet
difficult to collect
15the Babisa have
no more valour
than the others but
more craft - Head-
man Moerwa decieved
20us as to food


0019

While resting in the
way Moerwa came
past us with all his
force of men women
5#and dogs to hunt elephant
the dogs a small pariah
mostly of a reddish
yellow keep up the
animals attention while
10the hunters approach
& throw their large
spears - The women
cook & make huts
The smith with his
15bellows is ready to
mend any broken
spear -


Large masses of yellow
Haematite again appear
20as if when the Lakes
existed many springs

0020
flowed on the highlands
& [  ]{de}posited this iron
ore = It is often a
ferruginous conglomerate
5having quartz pebbles
in it -       Grey granite
or gneiss & quartz
with talc lie under it


We pass over level
10plateaus{x} on which the
roads are wisely placed
Forest - thickly planted
but much pollarded
from bark cloth being
15made of the gum
copal trees - which
seem of two kinds -
mules of Masuka -
Caelsalpinial Rhododen
20-drons - short grass -
seeding at from 15 inches
to three feet & fine

0021
Gay flowers blush
unseen - looked at the
basket of a woman
who had collected some
5eight or more kinds
of leaves - mushrooms
& orchid[      ] flowers


We have a succession
of showers with thunder
10from NNE & N-E
, whither
we wend our way
uncertain when we
shall come to a village
We are in disfavour
15with the Babisa because
we wont sell our
things for wory [      ]{among}
them. 5 - 15 course NE & NNE






20

31st Decr 1866 1 - 30
to Chitembo's village

& find it deserted

0022
It is the custom to dis-
-mantle the huts & go w
the thatch to the outlying
gardens where they
5remain till harvest is
over - This process of
following the huts
clears out much
vermin but wherever
10Babisa or Arab slavers
have been bugs abou
abound -


In saluting each other
they lie down on their
15backs - clap their hands
& utter a not very
elegant half kissing
sound from their
lips -


20

A lion roared this
morning as we passed
him but we did not

0023
see him - A woman
had come a long way
& built a miniature
#hut in the r{b}urnt ruins
5of her mothers house
believing that she was
thus pleasing her
deceased parent - there
food would be placed
10& she would be consoled
by this act of filial piety


Passed two rills
besides that we slept
at all running up North
15Trees are dripping w
shower which ceased
at daylight -


Chitembo was
working in his garden
20when we arrived but
soon came to see us
an old man &

0024
much more sensible
than Moerwa - says
that Chitapanga is
the paramount chief
5all Beb{m}ba - &
Motuna is a day
off -


Three or four women
two the same who
10performed at Moerwas
are here rain making
their faces smeared
with meal & axes
in their hands - imi
15tating as well as they
can men's voices
Moerwa had given
them the cloth I
presented to him -


0025

1st January 1867
#Let thy mercy & grace
be upon me this
year O God


5

Mbulukuta is the
name of Chitemba's
district
- We remain
here today by the
10boys desire to rest
& because it has
been a set in rain
today




15

2d Remained because
of a set in rain but it
threatened only a shower
before daylight
- Then




20

3d Showery through night
& drizzly or raining

0026
all day
- bought a senze




4th Set in Rains
Boiling point shews
53565 = ft Bas 3983 ft
above the sea - We
can get a little food
here so prefer it to
getting wet & our
10goods spoiled by
marching - but it
is hard fare and
scanty - I feel always
hungry & dreaming
15of better food such
as I have enjoyed
We are on the Northern
edge of the great
valley behind - a
20wet region but

0027
we shall be off as
soon as we can get
a fair glimpse of
weather


5

The people employ
these continuous
rains
to kill elephants
as they get bogged &
sink about 15 or 18
10inches
in soft mud


5th still storm
stayed = Rain heavy -
after the evening
service two men
15came to us who
said that they were
going to Lobemba
& would guide us

0028
one was Motuna
to whom we were
going, but for the
rains - (liable to
5mistakes
another
came a few days ago
who was evidently
a slaving rogue - I
was impressed very
10unfavourably towards
him & so were the
boys - We have been
without service for
two Sundays but
15resolved always to
have prayers even
though obliged to
travel on that day
Want of food was
20our necessity on

0029
both occasions and
real knawing hunger
without prospect of
satisfying it is ill to
5bear - We have had
a week of the coarse
Maere - It seems to have
a good deal of gluten
in it & when well
10boiled is endurable but
we want animal food
too




7th January 1867
15March in a drizzling
rain
& led contrary to
our wishes W.N.WWest Northwest
2 - 15 to a stream in
a deep ravine full
20of trees & bamboos

0030
flows SSW to form
Loangwa


+ 40 m + 15 == 3 h - 10 to
Motuna's village
- a
5new one & no food
yet the headman
tried to impose by
saying all demanded
& obtained 2 fathoms
10in this side of the
country - offered to
leave his village
rather than quarrel
country is mountain
15-ous & difficult -
He begged us to stay
& he would give
guides tomorrow
a mountain called
20Chikokwe appears

0031
in the West S. West
very high - Matumba
live on it - Movoche
River
crossed today
5followed Moanzwa which
falls into Loangwa


{figure}
0032

[  ]January 1867
March 1 - 15 N. on the
plateau on top of ridge
Matumba
- country is
5now leafy in the extreme
It is covered with a
mantle of green = The
grass in seed & only from
a foot to 18 inches high
10in the seed stalk - We are
going to Chitapangwa's
who is paramount chief
of Lobemba - many
flowers appear - the
15gay scarlet Martagon
(Lilium Chalcedonicum)
is conspicuous - fine
blue flowers - gingers


0033

1 h - 15 m on plateau & N.
+ 1 - Do + 50 N.W to a
Rivulet Chimala said
to flow into Nyamase
5= 3 - 5
We turned to the
W. in order to get the
shelter of some huts
made by Babisa traders
here as the rain is
10very threatening & likely
to be heavy
- The
guides say that the
small gardens are to
avoid the exactions
15of the Lobemba chief
Chitapanga or Chafunga


Motuna having
been baffled yesterday
when he tried to be
20extortionate absented
himself from the

0034
stockade this morning
leaving us to deal
with a subordinate
for a guide - This
5man demanded pay
ment before starting
but on our starting
without us came
along - some seem
10born essentially
mean which is a
great misfortune
to them - They cannot
be so blameable as
15those who have no
natural tendency to
meanness & their
education has taught
them to abhor it -


20

It is very difficult
to go through a country

0035
without a track - my
limbs are quite sore
with yesterdays cross-
-country march - We
5are getting nearly up to
5000 feet & trees &
plants are new - gig
-antic timber grew
in the deep dell of the
10movoche festooned w
orchilla weed - It was
trying to be led so far
simply to get mulched
#by a petty headman
15but this is just part
of that under current
of vexation which is
not awanting in the
smoothest life & not
20worth making a
moan over


0036


9th January 1867


March 1 h 40 m N. + 50
Do + 1 - 30 = 4 hours N
cross three oozes & a
5gushing burn flowing
S.W. we come to a second
range - first hardened
sandstone - & 2d & 3 Do Do


A serpent lay in our
10path & did not move
though it saw us - It was
fortunately observed by the
keen eyes of the guide
who killed it.


15

[The] Guide kept shouting
this morning to the
Nyoche or honey guide
to come but none
appeared = a water
20buck had been killed
& eaten by some animal

0037
after a severe struggle
of which the ground bore
marks all about the
spot - no people here
5but beautiful wild
valleys where the oozes
overflowing with water
are saturated - no trees on
them -


10

Cross another brook &
ooze - iron ore & slag
with mounds for maize
& other seeds shew that
once this was inhabited
15& had more peaceful
times - The Mazitu swept
them off.


Most of the trees are
pollarded for charcoal
20or for hunting with the Hopi
hence the jungle we
pass through is more
a bush than a

0038
forest - we seldom see
a hundred yards &
then the country is
much like many parts
5of Londa - a mile of
level
& then a valley
pleasant to see from
being covered with a
short wiry kind of
10grass - all the footprints
of buffaloes & elephants
are full of water & we
go on the grass plash
plash as if beneath
15were all a sponge full
of water - the burns are
all running with clean
water - Animals now
keep away from these
20places for fear of
getting bogged - sleep
at an ooze & burn
after four hours march


0039

My meal went done
today & Simon gave
me a little of his
It is not the unpleasant
5-ness of palateable
food as this Maere is
but one is never satisfied
I could dispose of a very
unsavoury mess &
10think no more of it
but this engenders a
craving which plagues
day & night incessantly
sleep at a Rt & ooze
15after four hours march




10th Decr{Jany} 1867 = 1 h 15 m
to a herd of buffaloes
but they are wild & seem
20in the bush before we
can see them + 35 m to
0040
Rt Muazi
running
strongly to the East to
join the Loangwa -
3 yds wide - at 9 AM
5Bar. 25.15 = 80°
+ 30 m to top of another
ridge Bar 24.96 = 84°
10 AM
+ 45 = 3 - 5
10at 11 AM 25.02
at 10 on the

{figure}


0041

11th Decr 1867 -
Yesterday an excessively
heavy thunder storm
came on & wet us all

5two remained behind
and this morning we
are waiting & firing for
them - other two wandered
& they had my clothes
10but they found us by
our firing in the even-
-ing - thankful that no
one is lost for he would
never find his way
15to a village - The country
is a succession of
wavy heights & hollows
covered with thick jungle
Simon gave me a little
20of his own meal, lacking
it himself, took my belt
up three inches to relieve
the hunger feeling


50 m find some wild

0042
fruit - unripe wretched
stuff of which we all
partake - got the path &
at first march come to
5charcoal burners near
the village - In front we
have a range of hills
which form half a circle
round by the west + 25
10to village of Chafunga
= 1 - 15


famine here too but
some men had killed
an elephant & calf
15a short distance off
and came to sell the
meat which was very
high - their prices were
equally high [      ]{but} we
20are obliged to give our
best - craving hunger

0043
hunger compels - the
dialect is changed con-
siderably here -


{figure}
5

12th January 1867.


on sitting down this
morning behind a
tree I found my head
10just one yard from
a cobra coiled up among
the sprouts that had
shot out near the root
of it - a good large one
15but it was benumbed
by the cold - The temper
-ature lowered this
morning shewed a
partial cessation
20
0044
of the rains but it
is cloudy yet
— a
large party of Elephant
hunters went off
5Westwards this morn
ing to some spoor
we had seen there -
they had about a dozen
wretched curs with
10them - to engage the
animal's attention while
they spear him - Houses
here flatter in the roof
than those nearer the
15S. edge of the plateau -


Capons appear here -
Lobanga, a vegetable
is planted in the gardens
{figure} here -


0045

13 January 1867 -
We bought all the food
we could get yesterday
& it did not suffice
5for the four or five days
we must march before
we get to the Chambeze
where food is plentiful
In fact it amounts to but
10three days rations - We
are therefore compelled to
march on Sunday - We
had morning Prayers
before starting -


15

I had not provided so
well for myself as for the
party consequently my
food was done two days
before reaching Chafunga's
20village
- Simon as above
stated gave me of his &
went without himself
others had flour but

0046
did not offer any -


When we found our two
boys lost & sleeping in the
jungle we fired guns but
5being in a hollow were
not heard - In the morning
I stated to the rest that we
could not remain where
we were in expectation
10of the lost coming up as
our spoor was obliterated
by the heavy rains & we
could not go back as we
did not know where to
15look for them - I had no
food & but for Simon
would have gone without
on the day previous -


We must therefore ascend
20a height - fire guns and
if no answer were
given go on to the village
the lost ones fortunately
heard us & after waiting
25two hours they came up


0047

When in the village about
2 PM Simon called my
attention to Chuma having
2 bags of meal - I went
5into the hut assigned &
found my boy munching
cakes he had made and
our bag of powder (about 5 lbs
placed on the ashes & about
10one foot of the live coals
He took up his two bags crammed
full of meal & was walking
off when I asked him if
he knew that I was in
15actual want - (I had always
given him a part of any
food I got - any charity
from a chief or so he
came expecting a slave &
20as a sort of member of
my family I gave it
without thinking I had
done anything meritorious
I gave him a light load - &
25beads privately on the

0048
same ground - He blushed
if a black man can blush
& said that he did "not know
I was without food till this
5morning" - it was 7 AM
when I told them{him} & this was
now 2. PM without his
offering any - He gave
at last a little meal on
10a plate - and with beads
I gave him bought & ate
so much elephant's meat
as to bring on diarrhoea
This morning and a
15declaration that he cannot
go on = the "lazies" always
exhibit themselves when
we have a difficulty
before us = Mabruki w{h}as
20sat down behind & there
remains for us to send
back for him - He was
ill & did not make it
known


0049

March 2 h N.W. to a Rt flowing
W. men calling for
the honey guide - Meet
three men with ivory
5from Chitapanga's
+ 1 - 15 to Lechees
& sleep beside a
stream which forms
a large wet meadow
103 - 15 called Chimbwe
Lokosa Mt




14 January 1867
march 1 h - 10 m along a
15small lake formed by
the rivulet we crossed
two hours from Chafungas
It is about 5 miles long
& 1 ½ broad
-


20

+ 45 + 35 in crossing

0050
2 30
a smart slap made the leeches
let go then hold - pulling did not




15th lost the dog Chitane
5the ford was a mile
wide
& waist deep
- I
crossed first & no
one attended to the dog -
It must have swam
10among them till it
sank - a great loss as
he kept all country dogs
off our huts & never stole
himself - He was becoming
15red like the country dogs -
The bottom was soft peaty
stuff with holes in which
one sank & the boys were
all fully engaged in
20gaurding themselves


a set in rain commenced
at Sunset & went on


0051

March N. through the
hills which have a rill
running strongly through
it back to the Lakelet -
5Hills of Dolomite rather
bare - a few new trees
In the pass ^ 9 AM 26.95 = 77°
Hills rise about 1000 feet
above this
-


10

March 1 - 5 + 45 to
top of ^ first pass 24.68
at 10 40 AM - an 80° + 35 m
to higher gorge 24.57 - 81°5

a Rhododendron with
15notched leaves - a tree not
Rhododendron with white
silvery leaves {figure} a hard
leafed acacia - colour very
dark - Amaryllis Lolcana
20"Rhinoster bosch" ^ a foot in diameter of Cape
stem 6 inches in diameter
Many shuare palms

0052
in the streams - Fruit like
Jambos - Spikenard looking
plant, as depicted in Bible
dictionary
- Zamias -
5Monyelenyele - a tree
common of Kalahari
Desert
- Red - pink ^ orange - &
pure white orchids -
Wild Parsnips - Dill
10
2 H = 25 Rain such as
we had last night

seemed iminent &
we were among wild
15fruit at an alt. of
5366 feet - so we
remained - & sent
up Barometer to
top - it shewed 1150
20feet
higher


0053


March on 16th Jany/67
1 H - 30 m + 30 + 1 h + 30 ==
= 3 - 30 + 10 = 3 - 40
to sleep
5the pass we came through
this morning shewed
by Barometer 24.3 = 70°
We then began our descent
at 12 - 24.7 = 85° - air
10Lowest Temp. by night 62°
at 1 PM 24.85 - 85° air
at 3 PM 24.9 = 87° air
to water 71° = 71°/16



15

came to people living in
forest to eat Masuko &
make mats of Shuare
palm ribs - or petioles -
they had mushrooms spread
20in the sun -


We have hard lines -
nothing but a little

0054
Maere meal made into
Porridge or dampers -
The guide a maundering
fellow turned because he
5was not fed better than he
had at home - He was very
useless & through him we
lost the dog - would not
shew us a better ford
10unless we paid him
for that separately - We
are all constantly hungry
and the jungle fruit does
not satisfy - It is all
15forest here with open
glades in vally{valleys} which
are very beautiful &
look like gentlemen's
parks - All ground is
20sloppy & many oozes
full & overflowing -
All the rivulets full
& we cannot say which
is perennial & which
25not - They all run

0055
Northwards & Westwards
to the Z{Ch}ambezi - feet are
constantly wet from
getting through oozes -
5no game in the country
at present but at other
times seem to be plenty -
stopped to spend the
night at an old en-
10#-campment of Babisa
slavers - all feel
weak & easily tired by
the jungle fare - The
appetite very keen &
15this Maere stuff
passes the stomach
almost unchanged




17 January 1867
20Detained this morning
by set in rain till 12
0056
oclock - set off & it
rained again
- 1 - 40 to
hill with rocks over-
grown with grey
5lichens - rained again




Bar. stood at 25.0 all
morning - marched 1 - 40
& it shewed at 1 - 30 PM
1024.7 - an 82° - Raining
at 3 P.M. - Bar.
shewed 24.95 - Air 86°

and there the first iron
ore - Haematite appeared
15none observed higher
but all the rocks are
the dolomite or marble
+ 1 - 35 - to a strong
Rivulet running in
20our direction all day
NNW & NWE{NNE} to Zambesi

0057
at 3 - 30 on banks of
strong Rivulet mentioned
Baro. 25.02 = air 85
= 1 h - 40 m + 1 h - 35 m = 3 - 15 +
530 = 3 - 45 to the vil
-
of Chaokila called




Lisunga


{figure}
0058

18th Jany 1867
Food very scarce
& headman shabby
enough to take our
5present & give nothing
in return - People
living chiefly on
leaves & mushrooms
of which latter they
10use four{ive or six} kinds
& reject four{ten sorts}




19th Raining most of
the day
- worked out the
15Longitudes of mountains
of chitane 32° - 1' - 30"
                Lat 11° 9' - 2"




20th a guide refused =
20forepayment the excuse -
1 h - 40 m W & then NW -



21st Remain - 22d Do
but compelled by famine to go


0059

Chimlaose & Kar[  ]{ie}ka
#abscond ^ on 20th taking with
them a box of powder
& large copper pot - all
5our dishes (2 basins & 3
plates) - flour - meat
two books - powder horn
towels - 2 guns & a cart
pouch - medicine
10chest - 5 cloths large canvas
bag - all Barakas clothing
I feel the loss of the medicine
most keenly - It felt
like sentence of death
15by fever -


Return to Lisunga -
& send off men to inter
-cept the thieves


21st Remain N raining
20all day - 22° - Do Do

buy all the food that
Chaokila will sell

0060
so march on there




23{2}d - march 5 ¾ hours
to vil of Chibanda


5

24{3}th send men to Muasi's
village
to buy food -
none here except Mush
-rooms - They got none
The people here collect
10at present with ease
as many mushrooms
as they can carry - boil
& pound them in
a mortar & make a
15good mass = one
species called Chisimbe
is lobed & green
outside & pink in
-side - very fleshy
20looking - gives taste
they say to the rest

0061
of the Mushroom
porridge = {figure}




25{4} January 1867
5March from vil. of
Chibanda
1 H 45 m N.N.W.
through unbroken forest -
trees not large but obstruct
all view + 1 - 15 = Do 3 Hs
10to a Rt & village + 30 m N
+ 30 m N.E. to Movushi Rt
& Moaba's vil near
Chambeze = 4 hours

The Movushi seems a
15sluggish stream winding
in a marshy valley a
mile wide
- we are
close to its confluence
with Z{Ch}ambeze - it
20comes from SE &

0062
goes N into Chambeze here




26{5}th the people of
Moaba have plenty of
5food - thanks to the
Almighty for bring us
safely here - other side
Chambeze is a land of
plenty - cows, sheep
10& goats & corn - Never
have I suffered so
much from hunger
as in Lobisa - real
gnawing hunger ill
15to bear - the appetite
is so keen in this
country = & want of
salt helped to increase
the sinking sensation
20I am now a mere
bundle of bones


0063

26th January 1867


waiting for canoes to
cross Chambeze -
march 30 m N to Rivulet
5in a broad valley full of
water 30 m to cross it
then 50 m to a deep Rt
the Movushe flowing
W into Chambeze
10+ 20 West to deserted
huts to spend night
2H 10 m in all
- Tokus
#abundant - full grown
he Poku from snout to insertion
15of tail             5 ft 3
Tail                 1 foot
height at withers 3 ft
circum - at chest 30 m{5 feet}
Black in front {Black in front} of

0064
[      ]{[      ]} tips of ears - & - nearly -
white belly = yellow
-ish red on reverse
12 cr{r}ings on horns -
5- face to insertion
of horn             9 ½ in
Horns by curve 16 in




very thankful to
10the Giver of all
good things for
this food - Ball
went through spleen
& burst on other
15side of animal -
(a ridge on ^ one horn
behind - perhaps
accidental - half an
inch broad at base
20¼ inch high - tapering
up back of horn


0065

27th set in rain
all morning
but we
have meat & are
comfortable in the
5old huts with fire -
no salt - plenty of all
good things are said
to be in Lobemba -
in washing this morn
10-ing frightened at my
own emaciation




28 January 1867


Went 5 miles along
15Chambeze
to a crossing
place which report
says avoids three
deep rivulets on the
North - side - one we
20saw - our crossing
is in 10° 34' South
Lat.
- march N from
it 1 h
through flooded

0066
lands - Chambeze is
in flood with clear
water - but within its
actual banks is only
5about forty yards
wide
- as everywhere
else abounds with
animal life in its
waters & on its banks
10& 45 m along a rivulet
coming from North
& 15 = 2 hours N & by W

      canoe man shewed
excessive distrust of
15us - prepayment
& when I acceded to
that - discovered that
the cloth was too little -
wanted a piece more
20I agreed to give it when
all were safely over
He kept a hostage

0067
on the South bank till
he got it & then left
us to find our way
though he promised to
5come to next village -
lands all flooded
near Chambeze & the
clarias capensis coming
#out foraging all over
10the meadows - Had to
wade the first mile -
all the water is clear =
People have great fear
of crocodiles in Chambeze
15and of wild animals
by night - so every vil
has a stockade & that
carefully shut by night
Temporary villages even
20are hedged & the gateway
stockaded & shut at
nights - We are now
in Lobemba -


0068


29 January 1867


march 1 h 5 N by{N} West
1 h N. W. to a stream
5& marsh - saw some
[     ]{Harte}beests - + 40 m N W{by}
10 meet people who lead
us to their village & 30 m
= 3 = 10 + 35 + 25 =
104 - 10 to a village


{figure}
0069

c{C}ountry level and
covered with forest
with here & there a
valley having grass
5the seed stalks of which
are pink - the seed barely
yellow - the mass has
a pretty appearance
but now all the valleys
10are full of water - they
are sponges & so are
many other parts in
which the boot sinks
as if treading on soft
15#peat - My feet are always
wet - Rheumatic
pains of which I never
had any till now tell
the effect - Plenty of
20game here elephants
& buffaloes - many of
the gum copal trees

0070
are pouring out gum
of a brownish red
or yellow colour - this
is the effect of the rains
5the man who shewed
us the way collected
a bundle of caterpillars
and tied them up in
leaves - they were about
103 inches long & half an
inch in diameter &
belong to the Masuko
trees - We waded through
half a mile of swamp &
15ooze
before entering the village
where we spend night
of 29th




30th March 1 h North
20through almost the trackless
dripping forest + 1 - 30
N. N. W. cross and the
swamp & ooze ¼ mile
broad = 2 - 30


0071
Brought forward and 2 - 30
+ 1 h - 15 + 35 = 4 - 20 to
vil by Lopiri Rt
&
near where Lightning
5struck ground - came
down gum copal tree
went 10 yds how you
{figure}                 tally

10then spread into two
sp{str}eams & half way up
an anthill where it
disappeared - the
grass was withered
15for a yard broad
shewed the course
it took -




31st January 1867


20

March through Forest
with gardens at

0072
- intervals of larger size
than the Babisa & stockaded
villages here & there
Hard leafed acacia
5in plenty & Molompi
a man offered a thick
bar of copper for sale
March 1 H - 25 m + 1 H = N. W
Mabula Rt strong one
10flowing SS = W


#Passed another place
where lightning had struck
a dried tree - splinters of
which had been riven off
15& thrown 60 yards in
one direction & 30 in another

Only stump left -----


No fish in these moun
tain streams except very
20small (fry probably) ones
but say the people on
the other side of the ridge

0073
at which Chitapanga's
village
is situated they
are to be found = 2 - 25
+ 1 = 3 - 25 + 40 =
54 H - 5 to Chitapanga's
village
which has a
double or rather triple
stockade & round the inner
one a ditch - the inner
10& outer lines of defence
are planted with sarsa
parilla = reeds & solanaceous
plants having thorns -
He sent to ask if we
15wished an audience
Being tired I replied - Not
till evening & was then
informed that no one
could come before him
20for the first time without
a present in his hand


0074

Took a cloth & gave
notice at 5 PM of my
coming - We passed
through the inner stock
5-ade and then to an
enormous hut where
sat Chitapangwa with
three drums & twelve
or fourteen rattles were
10beaten furiously before
him {figure} two of the men
made various antics
as of ob[    ]{ei}ance - coming
forward & receding in
15stooping posture - then
rattles on the ground but
still keeping time with
rest - He saluted courteous
-ly - a pleasant jolly face
20with legs loaded with
brass & copper leglets


0075

After explaining the
losses we had sustained
by desertion of the two
Waiyau - told him the
5objects I had in view
in coming - then took
leave & he came [      ]{Along}
with me to a group
of cows when he pointed
10out the fattest & said
"that is yours" - When
we came before him
I objected to sit on the
ground & he ordered a
15huge Elephants tusk
to be put down for me
to sit on. On reaching
our hut it was sent
after me saying it was
20mine as I had sat on
it - the slave traders

0076
eyes glistened & said
"give it to us we like these
things - the English dont
care for them" I said
5that I would speak about
it tomorrow - He clothed
himself with my cloth
as token of acceptance
then two large baskets
10of sorghum came
{figure}
& he sent for Abraham
to get more information
from him after dark -


15

The slavers (blacks
all) are from Bagamoio
one was with Speke
at Tanganyika - They
came in two months
20crossing at Ngotagota
where we were reversed


0077

Nsanga a ten stringed
musical instrument -
met with {figure} at Chitapanga's
the inside is hollow
5though not seen in the
sketch




1st February 1867


Writing as the black
10slave traders are going
home tomorrow -




2 By payment I got
the postmen to wait
15a day - wrote all day
yesterday & all today




3d Magoru Mafupe
Hadim Alamji
left
20this morning with
a packet of letters for
Zanzibar - wrote

0078
Lord Clarendon - Mr
Wylde
- R{S}ir Roderick
Prof. Sedgwick - Dr
Macleod
- Mr Webb -
5Waller - Tom, Agnes -
C. Braithwaite - Seward
- Sultan - Tracey - Sir -
Bartle Frere
- Sir
Thomas Maclear
- Mr
10Moffat
- Mr Young -
17 in all




4th February 1867.


the chief evidently grieved
15that he had given so
big a cow tried to change
it - declined to take it at
all said he wanted
the black traders to be
20away before we killed it

0079
The black traders
came from Bagamoio
straight across &
passed Nyassa on
5their left - not a
soul would reveal this
route - probably they
did not know it
as this is the first
10time they came - It is
full of villages who
have plenty of goats
& very cheap - They
came in two months
15& number 15 stations
of chiefs or Sultans
as they call them


#2nd{1st} went to chief &
gave him one of my
20best cloths -


0080

2nd Feby 1867 - writing
all day as the traders
will not delay their
departure - )


5

3d Sent the traders away
to be paid Rs 10 at
#Zanzibar - wrote for
small supplies of
10coffee - sugar - candles -
French preserved meats -
a cheese in tin - 6
Bottles Port wine - quinine
Jalap & calomel - stick of
15sealing wax                         
to be sent to Ujiji for
me in May next -


I proposed to go a little
way East with these
20slavers as goats are
plenty there but Chita
-anga
opposed this

0081
& got angry because I
did not buy anything




4th Feby 1867 went
5& told chief that I was
going away - He was
displeased & said that
I had not given him
time to consider whether
10to send me safely - He
came in the evening
& insisted on our
taking those first
presented - Killed it -
15& tasted fat for first
time these six weeks
& more - gave two more
cloths but he wants a
blanket which I cannot
20give as I have none
says he will send us a
safe way!


0082
{figure}
0083

5th gave chief 2 of our
best cloths in consider
ation of a{for} the ox - He sent
them back say that he
5wanted a blanket -
said that the boys were
not slaves & I could
not take their blankets -
offered to return his
10beef - refused




6th He came with his
wife to see the instru-
-ments - wants 5 cloths!!
15The Arabs have spoiled
him - boys very
much afraid of him
It is a wet time or we
should move off - but
20they think we shall be
attacked - told him
about God & Bible

0084
        to which he returned
        intelligent remarks -






7th February 1867 -


5

chiefs say that in front
we shall find people
stronger than he is who
will not put up with
small presents such as I
10have given


Went to him & midday,
[&] proposed to refer the
matter to his brother
Moamba but this he
15would not assent to
He turns round now &
places all the blame
of being sorry after giving
[      ]{him} presents - says that
20his heart is not satisfied
yet - I cannot enter into
his ignorance or points
of view - one who has
no humour cannot

0085
enter into the feelings
of one who has - & to
form a true judgment
one would require to enter
5into the ignorance - the
prejudices - the delusions
of others.


His brother wishes me
to go to his village but I
10shall endeavour to avoid
the whole family - Chitapanga




8th wishes one of my
boxes though all the
15articles therein would
spoil by exposure to
one days rain - chief
says he will send us
back to Loangwa - I
20give no food - boys
terrified - he wants
a box too! besides the
blanket


0086

[9th] He thinks that we have
some profitable end in
view in passing through
to country - some self
5interest to secure -
though he knows not
what it is = & when
we deny that it anything
of materill{ial} interest
10other than the public
benefit he pulls
down the lid of his
right eye - sent to
say after dark that
15if we did not give a
box & blanket we
must either stop here
or go back - that he
will send people to
20take us over Chambeze


0087

It is perhaps on a
coincidence, but no
sooner do we meet with
one of Speke's companions
5than the system of
fining commences - He
probably gave the chief
information as to
what he might do to us
10& the boys are so cowardly -




10th Had service in the
open air - many looking
on - Went & spoke to
15chief a long time - about
our going he believes
nothing but what
Speke's companion
told him - gave us some
20corn & ground nuts -
says he did not order
the people not to sell -
we must stop & eat

0088
green maize =




11th gave us a basket
of Hippopotamus meat
5from Chambeze & a
big basket of green
maize - He came yester
day to see our service
but just as we had con
10-cluded evening prayers
I explained to him but
it is little that his mind
can take in -




15

12th gave one of the
boxes sorely against
my will but it lightens
our loads a little - the
contents liable to be
20spoiled in a bag




13 After giving it
chief renewed his

0089
demand for a blanket
otherwise we must
remain! I got ready to
go but he came with
5all his force to com-
-pel me to remain - His
heart not yet satisfied
He wants to send me
away nicely - so he
10says - does not believe
that we have no
blankets - It is hard to
be kept waiting here
but all may be for
15the best - It has been so
always & I trust Him
on whom I cast all my
cares - The Lord look
on this & help me -


20

Gave chief some
seeds - peas & beans
for which he seemed

0090
thankful






13     February 1867
not well - headache
5& feverish - the camwood
seems abundant here
for Ikhola is much
used by the people on
their heads - It is a
10bipinnate with altern
ate lance shaped leaves
The bark is ground down
& put in balls for
use as ornament


15

14th shewed him
one of the boys old
blankets but he refused
it says we have others
20in our boxes -




15 told him to come
& I would shew

0091
him but he must
pay me for the insult
He agreed to give an
ox but in a laughing
5way He saw that
there was none - I
therefore bought the
blanket for two cloths
& gave it -


10

He now wanted me
to buy an ox for a
piece of red serge &
declared an oath that
no milando would
15ensue - found that
Abraham had mis-
interpreted what the
chief said rather
only told me a part
20for if he had told me
that he must have
a blanket I would

0092
not have taken the
cow on any account
Bought this one &
we are to go tomorrow
5chief is not so bad
as my boys are
so cowardly - they
assume a chirping
piping voice in
10speaking to him &
don't say what I do
through sheer fear
This is a great difficulty
for often the very
15thing I wished to say
has at last to be said
It shews immense
conceit to think

0093
they know better than
I what to say - timorous
crawling slavelings!




5

17th Took ill of a
severe rheumatic
fever - first I ever
had to have service
no medicine!


10

18th Feby 1867. bought
chief's cow & slaughtered
it - last I had coooked
gradually in a large
15pot & served out
when ready to all - they{Boys}
did not like this
but prefer as I know
they do to buy with
20good fat beef
0094
squashy calabashes
which are nearly all
water - but to these
they were accustomed
5in early youth


The booming of
water is heard at a
good distance from
most of the burns
10of this upland region
it is never still -
Here rocks are of
argillaceous schist
red & white (Keel)
15contorted with a
fine grained schist
above it like dolomite


0095

19th Feby 1867 The
chief begged us to stay
that one of the boys might
mend & hem his blanket
5as I am weak & giddy I
consented - a glorious
day after a nights heavy
rain
- Wagtails both
white & black - & grey or
10ashey colour very very
tame






20th March 1 N.W. up
the heights
which surround
15Molemba. very slippery
day -


The chief tried to get us to
sell a cloth to Moamba
his elder brother but
20I declined - as his brothers
agents were here he pressed
it - 2 goats for one cloth
but we are laden with
meat - [      ] beef


0096

Went this morning
[&] said that my heart
was sore as he was not
sending me away so
5cordially as he ought
He at once ordered the
men to start with us
and gave me a brass
knife with ivory shield{ath}e
10which he wore on his
arm many a day to
be a memorial of him
shewed that we ought
to go North as if we
15made any Easting we
would be obliged to turn
round to West again as
all our cloth would be
expended - took a piece
20of clay off the ground
& rubbed on his tongue
as an oath that he
spoke truth =


0097

We got on to the plateau
above Molemba - all
forest but has been
cultivated at spots
5Pigs in plenty but we
saw none - after
two hours march
we halted by an ooze
for night - We are all
10stiff - I weak - and
will march better to-
-morrow - the men are
leading us naturally to
Moamba's & one reason
15we have for encamping
is to make a fresh start
N. in morning - Chita-
-pangwa
gave us a goat
at parting & came a piece
20of the way with us - so
a blessing be on him
poor fellow - 2 15
N.W.


0098

    The gum copal tree
is punctured by some
burrowing grub &
a branch 2 inches
5in diameter pours
out as much soft
watery gum as would
fill a soup plate to
overflowing - this
10hardens & is covered
by the soil


This is the rainy time
is that in which all
trees here pour out
15gum abundantly




21st Feby 1867 night
with loud & near thunder
& much heavy rain

20which came through the
boys sheds


0099

21st Feby 1867 - Roads all
gushing with clear water
- grassy places of oozes full
& overflowing march
51 h N.
= rocks jutting out
& every now & then a
rainy rill - much of the
spikenard looking shrub
sometimes 6 ft high & a foot
10in diameter + 50 mNW
- found a path going N -
We are without guides - 2
sent went to a vil to sleep
last night & instead of
15going to Moambas go
past him - Moamba is
quite out of our direction
but a path led us 50 m wrong
several of the boys went
20still further astray -
waited for them - rain
came on
& we lost the
day going only 2 - 10 m
to an old hut
25[      ] forest


0100
{figure}
0101

22d February 1867



March 1 h - 10 NW. +
50 m N.W. to a stream

flowing N.N.W. the first
5we have seen going in
that direction - goes into
R. Lokopo & it Luapula =
{figure} musical instrument -
Rivulet embowered in
10the tall straight smooth leaved
trees so common in Londa
hard leaved acacias. Masukas
& Rhododendrons. = 2 in all


The path led us right
15away to Moamba's the
elder brother of Chita-
-pangwa
whom we or
at least I wished to
avoid but the boys
20are nervously timid
& I fear pretended to
wander yesterday on
purpose not to get
into Moamba's

0102
disfavour by avoiding
him - + 45 m & then
cross Merengu to make
sheds - we are near to
5Moamba = 2 - 45 -
hope to get on better
in the open air than
in a close hut infested
by vermin.


10

Water delicious


All the force of young
men came to take us
over to the village -
then another depu-
15-tation headed by one
who can speak a
little Zawzibas
dialect - Then the old
men - but I resolutely
20refused on the ground
that I had been sick
& huts are full of bugs


0103

The chief came himself
with about sixty followers
stood a little way off
till I said "come here"
5He then requested me to
come over but I
told him how incon-
venient it was to be
in a hut where all
10came peeping in &
making remarks - &
laughing - besides I
had been sick & now
recovered but a hut
15with bugs & fleas would
make me ill - I would
visit him next day
He presented a she goat
& kid & calabash of
20thick beer of Maere
He is a stout big man
with a slight cast in the
left eye - a public house
keeper sort of person

0104
but like


Moika wife of
Moamba


{figure}
0105

23d Feby 1867 Went
over to vil. of Moamba
in a strong stockade in
Merenge Rt Ditch 20
5feet deep & about that
broad - Merenge bigger
than Merungu with
fine tall straight trees
growing in ooze on
10its banks = 6 or 7 yards
wide
running strongly
N. into Lokopa - &
again into Lokholu &
it into Chambeze!!
15Had long talk with
Moamba - intelligent
and hearty - gave
as much meal as a
man could carry w
20ground nuts - wished
us to come to banks
of Merenge to be near

0106
him - shewed him
pictures which he
readily understood -
asked particularly what
5#we wished to buy - I
said a good fat chief
like him with a
girl feeding him with
beer as a specimen
10This tickled him very
much - asked me to
come next day &
tell him more about
prayer to God =


15

24th Went over but
late on account of the
rain threatening - an
interminable talker
20had a cause before the
chief so we sat an
hour listening to his
oration - the chief

0107
all the while listening
with the gravity of a judge
Three bunches of medicine
brought in but the cause
5must be heard first -


#An enormous deal
of copper wire made here
the wire drawers using
for some part of the
10process a cable at least
a seven inch one - They
make it very fine - the
copper comes from
Katanga = seems cheap


15



25th Feby 1867


  came over to the R.
banks of Merenge in
order to sleep a night
20near the chief by his
desire. It is just a
mile from Merungu

here - on visiting the

0108
chief he was jolly
from beer bibing &
gave me a calabash
of sweet beer - very
5agreable & a huge
pot of the thick bitter
beer for my people -
talked a little but he
was a little too far
10gone for it - so came
away - he cooked
Nyumbo or Numbo
as they call the root
& gave me meal &
15a fine small bean
called Liranda




26th chief tells to stop
another day because
20the man to cross us
over the river in front
has not come and
his own goats have

0109
not arrived - he wishes
to buy a cloth with two -
I protested in vain &
unless I made a breach
5with him cannot well
go in spite of him -




n{27} wants us to buy a
useless goat for a
10good cloth & pay for
his canoes beforehand
Went over to him & found
him not at all un-
reasonable as he gives a
15man to take us all the way to
Chibue - gave him a cloth
& he gave me a spear covered
with copper wire - a goat
meal & beer - so we part
20good friends








0110

1st March 1867 - March
1 h - 15 m + 50 m + 1 - 20
== 3 - 25
came to a
deserted village - sent
5S. back for Mabruki
who was sick - he
came back saying that
he had gone to our first
& second resting places
10& near to a village &
could not find him
This was all fable for
he was found next day
near the first resting
15place - ill he had slept
there in the rains - S. is
an inveterate liar - &
like half castes generally
not to be trusted



0111

The bark of the camwood
is boiled before grinding
Numbo or Mumbo is
kept for a month only
5as a root but the stalk
for six months


{figure}




Simon's extra pay
102 ½ Rs from Septr to
March
-




4th March Suzi 3 ½
Rs extra - James 2 ½
15Rs extra -
Abraham's 15 - buy 5 R


0112
1 Mkubwa - 3 Mesombi 4 Chalonje
2 Chabambo Lokopa R
        Chitine -
        Kasowza R Lokolu NW
5        Chitimbwa
        Liemba 5 days off
        Shibanga
4 Molongo
5 Mepanda - 8 days off
106 Mofubule
7 Mpando
8 Mokapasia
9 Chibue = Mesumba the - his elder
- Chitimbwa        

15head of Bulunga
#


R Mopumpe
      Moitabwa
      Mvelovocata

0113


26th in night gently                       .13




27 by day Noon in night Do               .8


5

28th Noon T                                       .13




during night T                                 .14






10

                                                          11.50
1st March evening
& night with T. .92




3d 1 PM w T &
15Early part of night Do .75


0114

Rainfall February 1867




Lobembwa brought for           7.97
18th at 3-4 P.M.
5T showers & nearly
all night w T.                                 1.65




Do morning of 19th =                 9.62




10

20th Early morning                       .66




21st began about 9 PM
night before loud T. &
again early morning
154' NW of Molemba
in Forest + + .15 = .65
                  .50




22 . 2 AM w T                                   .16




20

23 Noon with T                                 .8




24th No rain here
but Thunder all around




25

25th a little rain in the
morning - & heavy
shower in vil 200 yds
from encampment

where none fell


0115
{figure}




Liranda = small leaves
Tatiete = wagtail


5{figure}
0116
{figure}
{figure}
0117

Tanja Spekes compass
plays on his hand like on
        a trumpet




5{figure}


        Motoka
        2 Moamba
        #Monawe som

10

2 Kasouso#
1 Chibue95
3 Mosamba
4 Kanze

15

Molombwa = cam
wood Inkola the substance
of colour from bark


0118
R uchere
Rivers on Do
Wembo
R Luaha
5R Luvo





stations &
chiefs on
Arab route
10to Bagamoio


#

1 Chasa
2 Lombe
3 Uchere
154 Yamniro
5 Zonda
6 Zambi
7 Lioto
8 Merere (uberè)
209 Kirangabana
10 NKongozi
11 Somboz{g}o
12 Se{u}re
13 [Lomola] Sengo
2514 Kapass
15 Chanze
Bagamono


0119

9th violent T storms
from West at
at 1 & 2 PM -                                   .63




5

[10th] violent T storm
from W 4 & 5 PM                           .62




11th gently first part of
night & early morning               .23


10

12th in night, gently                     .3




13 -in night, gently                     .10
no rain by day -


15

14 no rain for
24 hours -




15 by night                                       .7
20no rain by day -




16 most of the
night w T                                       2.42




25

17 Early morning
till Noon T -                                     .33




7.97


0120

Rainfall Molemba
1st February 1867
at Bemba - morning
& night with Thunder
5T = Thunder                                   .10




2d Do T. all night                 1.50{04}




3d In night T =                               .14


10

4th 9 AM till Noon                         .43
with T - East -                                 .54
3 PM T


5th at six AM
15    steady pour down
clouds from W ---                         .63
- at 5 PM under stratum
of clouds from N upper S.


6th night w T                                   .10
203 PM w T                                           .29




7th w T 1 PM                                     .7




8th Early morning                         .20


0121
{figure}




Mopira plenty
of goats


5

Magoru Mafupi
Hadim Sirkar
Alamji
takes
change of 12 letters
102 despatches & 2
notes
for Zanzibar
2d February 1867
from Beba Bem
ba
-
Molemba


0122

{figure} Babisa of
                Movushi
                mark - all
                pots in this
5country marked by
dotted lines {figure}






Ngalañanza a
country N.W. of
10Lobisa having gold






Chambeze
27 January 1867
Aldebaran


15{figure}
0123

{figure} makes the
                others when
                pound god
                Chiteale &
5                marks flesh
                        tasty


Kamombwe is chief
of Chihale where Loangwa
rises


10

Mambwe contains
source of Chambeze NNE




Kwat Kawiri kua
15Nsăma
is source of
Loapula
- Moerotaka
Chikalamba or very
large river - Bulungu
speak same as Babemba


20

Mok{b}anga - of Bopeng
b{B}abemba - Moanga
Mokalamba
=


0124

to ^ From Chafunga's vill Chatanta 2 days - next
day Kawie his sister's son
next to Chambeze




5

Canopus 17 Jany
        96 32 40 gives
Lisunga Lat 10º 53' 13"






{figure}

4 Mushrooms eaten
        by the people - Teute
        becomes very large






15

Moaba = Mamawa
Motento          Chisimba a
loved one
mushroom
names

20green out
side & pale
inside

Mopeta #
Boséfwe
25Nakabausa
Chisimba


0125

Rhododendrons - the
Masuko - the N^ Mosongwa
Nyanda or bark cloth
trees - the gum copal
5& others as mosokoso
Fine pasturage all over
these highlands - short
& sweet such as cattle
love - The garden willow
10by the brooks & red anemones
among old dendrons
flowers pink & yellow
the oxalis with its never
varying flowers - sage
15abounds = a splendid
blue flower in full
blow - and beatiuful
blue and yellow gingers
All the trees are leafy &
20no pine or fir tree


0126

7{8}th January 1867


choice to a tree with nice
yellow plums - with
2 or 3 seeds in each -
5The acid they contain is
very pleasant - It is
called Mosongwa


9th got Montologa plums
here called Molebe


10


on heights we had large
patches of our old acquain
15tance - the brakens - blue
& yellow spider worts -
pale ^ & pink lobelias & bright
scarlet compositacea
Dill & sarsaparilla


0127

gently (no thunder)                     .99






Brought forward {figure}
from page {figure}
5Rainfall up to 29th
23d - Forest at 2
PM with thunder
clouds from N.                                 .57




10

24 Chibanda vil
5 AM - thunder                                 .6




25 After sunset with
thunder from W-                             .23
15at R. Movushi




27th began at 8 -
PM with thunder
then at day
20break - silently -                               .32
& till Noon




29th Early morning                           .2




25

30 10 PM thunder                             .7




31st Morning .2 Evening 33=35 11.78


0128

12 showery but none
on us -




13th A heavy shower
5which made the roads
run but we were marching
(not measured - In the
night ---                                             .8




10

14 A drenching set in
rain began at sun-
set & continued long
& heavy                                         1.50




15

17th About 5 AM
with thunder                                 .24




18 Set in Early morning
with thunder                                 .37


20

19th Rain began
at 7 PM with thunder                 .48




20th with thunder
25at different times
through the day =                         .27




21st night & morning


0129

Thunder                                             .70
Drizzly by day
not measured




5

8th began at #
midnight with                              even
ing
.15
.77

10loud thunder





8th in all                                           .92


15

We have rain every
day but not all day
Thunder showers chiefly


9th Thunder showers
20went all ab{r}ound us
but only a few drops fell




10th about 4 AM --                          .8
Noon very heavy
25with loud thunder
till two PM                                     1.30




                                                  1.38
total up to 11th Dec                   6.53


30

11th ---                                                 .3


0130

1st January 1867
Set in but not heavy                   .45




2d began as yesterday
5before day break                           .4




3d January at{still} at Mbulu
kuta
- showers an hour
before day break &
10through the day - drizzly
chiefly - thunder                     .80{1}




4th      Do Do
midday & 10 PM
15with thunder =                           1.15




5 & 6 - with thunder
by day & night                             .95
                                                        + 13



20                                                          1.8



7th Rain began at
midnight with


0131

& several between
all slanting to steady
it
{figure}
or {figure} {figure}




10

In some the walls are of
split Bamboo plaited


{figure}
0132
{figure}

two forked trees are
chosen to place the ridge
pole on - then straight
5sticks measured so
that a notch may be
made where each is
bent over it - two
horizontal sticks are
10tied on each side with
inner bark - bushes
placed upside down
{figure} & then grass in
        same way - this
15        is soon made
or instead of trees
{figure} two forked sticks
        at each end of
        ridge pole


0133

Mobulungu




Chitembo have food
Mpoko - Babisa chiefs & are N.N.E.


5

Skhole red colouring
matter obtained from
trees put unto the ground
      Chitapanga head
10of the Babemba


Kōne the bird of
treble note - Oh Ŏ Ōh
Kamolongwe = whip
poor will" calls rain


15

        Mungolobe
        Lobembo
        Kabanda -



20

A man called Luapula
the child of Moero
-vocata Lake


0134
Kampueta #
Molopwe
Loabise
Moerovokata
5Loraula



Matambe o chabisa
Kondo Chibale
source
of Loangwa coountry

10N.E. 5 days from
Moero's
(Makopershield
2 people Achibale have
shields. La comes from N &
goes round to E ---
15(chalo = a tribe) chambese
is in Babemba country
Motuna is a Bemba
chafunqwa       Do


0135
{figure}

straight sticks planted
in a circle then a notch
made at the point where
5they are to be bent up
to a point to form the
roof - {figure}
a bundle
of grass
10is tied in two
places - then the portion
above the upper band
bent down all round
This is place on the peak
15of the house - then the
lower band loosed &
all the roots part falls
down on all sides


0136
{figure}
0137

Chanza 2d January 1866{7} an[     ]ese
[^ reports] is there = Motuka
have cattle says a
man from M^otunda
5N of this - Veilamba
chambeze 6 days off
1{2} desert ^ then 3d to Machuisi -
4th Desert = 5 to people -

chambeze comes from
10Mambwe on Mosanta
It is the boundary
between Lobemba &
Lobisa country
of the
Babisa


15

Plateau about 11°31'
25.
by anaeroid =
                {figure}


0138
{figure}

*this ^ Mokumbi seems to be the edge
of the table land to which
5we go as we make Northing
Moerwas is in broken
mountains nearly as
high


0139
{figure}
{figure}




{figure}
0140

26 Decr 1866 rain
with much thunder
in{at} camp only                     .5{.3}




5

28th Moerwa's
During night                           .29{14}
mid at midday
                      .50{30}
                                                    .89{44}




10

29 Moerwas - set in
rain at 9 A M
at 11 had falle[ ] -
                                                  1.5{1.25}




15

Rainfall                                           3.49


30th Dec too heavy
showers fell in the
Forest - not measured


31st in Forest 4 AM                 .11{.09}
20                                                            6.67


{figure}
0141
0142
{figure}
0143
0144
0145